In times of old, The Furies protected Mother Right. If a mother (or any woman) was harmed, The Furies swooped down and took their vengeance. They were one of the last vestiges of a world that existed before the patriarchy. When we feel righteous anger, it is The Furies who are calling out to us to make what is wrong right again.

Saturday, January 12, 2008

Night at the Old Mermaid Sanctuary 

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I'm sitting in the casita listening to the blues. Love me those blues, darlins. It is dark out, and we've spent most of the evening getting ready to leave tomorrow.

Yep, we'll soon be on our way back to the Pacific Northwest. I wish we could stay here longer, but I'm also looking forward to going home. I've been on the road so much since October that I'm ready to be home. I want to lounge on my couch (which is really a very old futon and not very comfortable) and eat bonbons. I actually don't know what a bonbon is, besides a "good good" so I'll just sit on my couch and eat something good good.

I want to go to Powell's Books. I went to Barnes & Noble, Borders, and Antigone at least twice each while here and I couldn't find anything. I'd stand in these stores and look around and think, "There are no answers here."

I felt like a zombie for the first part of our visit here. I told you about my back, which did get better after I took Will's suggestion to remove the "cushion" to make the bed harder. Isn't it interesting how a hard bed gives some people a backaches and a soft bed gives other people backaches? All right, I admit it: I can be interested in really boring things.

This year two great horned owls hung out in the palm tree near the casita. Did I tell you this already? We woke up to their calls every morning and listened to them wake up and prepare for the hunt every evening. The first few days here, I sat out by the pool with my old mermaid quilt. I walked the wash, too. Every day, Mario and I walked to Saguaro National Park and hiked it a bit.

I never saw the bobcat. We did see coyotes several times. One day at dusk we saw two very large coyotes in the wash. I decided to follow them. Sometimes I'm not too bright. I have such an affinity for coyotes that I sometimes forget they are canines and might not want some little human trailing them. Anyway, we stopped at the fork in the wash and hid in plain sight by an old palo verde, hoping the coyotes would just walk right by us. After a minute or two, we heard this deep, low, guttural sound. We both got chills. Hair stood up on the back of our necks. I said, "That's the javelinas. They've come out for the night." I remembered when I saw them four winters ago, they made a snorting sound; I figured this had to be the same thing. Though really, the sound we were hearing now was freaky scary, like something out of a horror movies, so I was just talking to reassure myself. The noise didn't stop, and I thought, "that can't be the javelinas." I stepped into the wash to see if I could see anything. Just then a dog started to bark. I realized the sound we had heard was a growl, which was exactly what it sounded like. The dog barked and barked. Mario said, "Well, that's gonna scare away the coyotes." I yelled, "Shut up!" The dog kept barking. We looked around and couldn't see this dog even though it sounded like it was only a few feet away from us. Dusk was threatening to turn to darkness. "Shut up, shut up, shut up!" I said. And suddenly the bark turned into a "yip-yip-yippppp." It was a coyote.

I had told a coyote to shut-up. Geez Louise.

I immediately apologized to the wild thing. The coyote did not stop barking or yipping. We decided we had violated some kind of unknown (to us) territory agreement. We were allowed the wash in the daytime, but at dusk it belonged to the wild things.

We went back to the house and sat on the porch. The coyote continued to bark, alone. I kept apologizing to it. I said I was sorry I had told it to shut-up (and secretly promised not to tell dogs to shut-up any more). I encouraged it to let its voice be heard. As we sat on the porch in the dark, the barking continued and seemed to get closer. It was rather unnerving, the whole thing. I'm not sure why. Maybe because I had so misjudged the situation—and I still didn't know what was going on.

The coyote continued barking until our housemates came home.

A couple of nights we waited under the palm tree to watch the owls take off for the evening. It was great fun. The owls watched us too. I waved. Did you ever notice how owls act a lot like cats? The way they look at people. The way they move their heads (okay, except for the Exorcist rotating head thing).

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And then some days I was so filled with regret and grief about my mom that I didn't know what to do with myself.

So I ate too much. I wondered if I would just keep eating until I was the size of two people, then three, then more. Then I'd carry around my sadness as extra weight, unexpressed, unfelt.

One day we were driving toward an art gallery/chapel on the north side of Tucson, toward the Catalinas. I stared at these beautiful mountains and felt such awe and love for them. On the radio, Paul Carrack was singing "The Living Years," and tears started flowing down my face. I wanted more than anything just to fall to my knees on the sweet hard earth and curl into a ball. Thinking about touching the earth made me feel better. I thought what I want to do with my life is to be able to stand my ground no matter what happens in my life. I want to be able to face life, look at it and know what it is and not pretend it is something else.

Mario and I walked in the desert a lot. We talked about life, work, love, and death. We talked about how, in our view, the Universe is neutral to us and our existence. I didn't believe some omniscient being was out there looking down (or up) at me ready to help me, save me, or destroy me. And the randomness or the meaninglessness of death and life...made me wonder about every thing. What was the sense of doing anything? We're all going to die.

We're all going to become nothing.

That's very disconcerting.

One day I had a conversation with my agent. We talked about one of my novels that hasn't sold yet. He told me that the market for fiction was really tough right now unless you were a well-known "commodity." Publishers had started determining a book;s success or failure based on the first week of sales, like movie producers. He was essentially saying that the fiction market was dead.

Kind of like a devout Christian hearing god was dead.

I suppose. Or maybe it was like a devout person hearing that god only hung out with famous people.

He said non-fiction was doing well right now. I started thinking of creative nonfiction books I could write or put together from my FS posts. Maybe my travel experiences or adventures at the Old Mermaid Sanctuary. Maybe a childhood memoir. (Already got a title, Brighton Girl Drowns in Bathtub.) He said to do a memoir I'd need a hook: abuse, crazy parents, something. Made me think of that song in Gypsy, "You Gotta Have a Gimmick." Shall I attach blinking lights to my breasts while I write?

He also talked about one of recent books not having the "Kim magic." He had mentioned this before, but I didn't really know what he was talking about.

When we got off the phone I was even more depressed than I had been before.

One night we had dinner with our housemates at Maya Quetzal. It was good to be with them and to stop by Maya Quetzal and see the people there. The next day, I felt like I was a bit more grounded. I got out my galleys for Ruby's Imagine and went over them. In fact, I read the book all the way through without stopping. (Not really the way you're supposed to look over your galleys.) But I loved this book, loved Ruby. She was full of magic. As I read it, I understood what my agent had meant. I realized that for the last couple of years or more I have been so sad and so filled with grief. And after Linda died, I just couldn't muster up any...magic. Maybe my books after Ruby's Imagine had been lacking something.

And then, as I was sitting in the Quail House, I came up with an idea for a new novel, a young adult Old Mermaid novel, The Blue Tail. (Yes, something about me and the color blue. Or the word blue.) The idea felt beautiful, lovely, magical, mystical. Now we'll see if I have the heart and soul to write it.

My father and sister and bro-in-law arrived in Arizona. I drove up to Scottsdale to spend a couple of days with them. It was great to see my Dad. He looked good, his shingles all gone, just a little black eye. We spent the day walking around. Later we had dinner over at my other sister's place next door to my dad's townhouse. Afterward we watched Eddie Izzard's Dress to Kill (again) and I laughed so hard it hurt. When we went back to my dad's townhouse, I was standing in the kitchen when I saw my dad spray something into the hepa fan. I thought it was some kind of air freshener, but I haven't been able to smell anything in about three weeks so I couldn't tell. Just then my brother in law came in and said, "Is that pesticides?" It sounded like he was kidding. And then I realized my father was spraying pesticides into a fan that was then dispersing it into the air. And he was spraying it near my phone and purse and all my things.

I couldn't believe it.

I said, "Dad, is that a pesticide?"

He didn't say anything. I said, "Fuck, Dad. That stuff makes me sick."

You know how you go into those states of total disbelief and utter fear and panic all at the same time? I went into one of those. Anyone who knows even a tiny bit about me knows that I'm pesticide sensitive and I've been working to eliminate (or reduce) the use of pesticides pretty much everywhere. I don't travel without finding out if the hotels use pesticides. I don't go any place where I know they've used pesticides. And here my father had these poisons in his house and was using them.

I couldn't believe my father had done that. And I immediately fell back into my paranoid mode of "my family doesn't understand me." I went outside. I was so angry and hurt. I can't articulate how upset I was. I didn't know if I was going to have an asthma attack. I didn't know what was going to happen to me. I didn't know if I'd have to throw out all my stuff—including a brand new phone and my computer. I said to my brother in law, "They must just think I make this shit up." He said, "I don't think he did it on purpose." And he was right, of course. I was sure my father felt terrible. I stayed outside in the dark and the cold and watched him bring the fan outside. I walked around the outside of the townhouses, trying to figure out what to do. I felt so unsafe. So lost. So damaged. My father came out and said he was sorry. I said, "I know but I have to stay out here for a while." I sat in the car, which had a VOC and hepa filter. I called Mario and told him I didn't know what to do. Finally I went back into the house. My father put his arms around me and apologized. I told him I knew he was sorry but I couldn't stay there. I was still so upset. And I didn't feel safe. I knew that he felt bad. I felt like I should do something to make it better for him, but I didn't feel safe. I told him I had to leave until the spray dissipated.

I drove around Scottsdale in the dark. I didn't know where the hell I was. I felt desolate. Homeless. Victimized. Lost. Hurt. Sick. My head throbbed. I felt like my lips were swelling. I called Mario in a panic. He tried to reassure me, told me I was probably just scared. I asked him to call my father and tell him not to worry or wait up for me; I'd be back in a couple of hours. I drove around wondering if there was any uncontaminated place in the world. Was there anyplace where I was safe, accepted, taken care of, loved, welcomed. Was there any place where I was not adrift?

No. And why should you be any different?

I went into some kind of weird Barnes and Noble or Borders called Bookstar. No one was there except the employees, and they were all laughing and talking about their sex lives. Or something. I didn't find any books that looked even vaguely interesting.

I felt like Homer Simpson at the beginning of the Simpson movie flipping through the Bible and then yelling, "There are no answers here!" There were no answers in that book store. Or in the next book store I went to.

I drove back to the townhouse. My father was asleep with the television on. My sister and bro-in-law were upstairs asleep. It was freezing in the house. He'd opened the windows to air it out. I woke up my father and told him to go to bed. He looked so cold and vulnerable. I got on the couch and pulled some blankets up around me. I didn't want to be there. I didn't feel safe. But I didn't want my father to feel bad. He didn't go to bed. We watched Corner Gas together and then Becker. Then he went upstairs to bed.

I tried to sleep. I think I got about three hours of sleep, off and on. I finally just got up at 4:30 a.m.—after I dreamed my sisters were all doing something that irritated me. I don't know what. I yelled at them. I said, "You're all fucking assholes!" And then I looked at my father and said, "Except you." Thinking of that dream made me smile. (When I told my sister and father the dream later, my dad said, "Gee, thanks, I guess.)

I got up and drove to around Scottsdale in the dark again. It was about 5:30, I think. Found a Starbucks. Sat inside sipping hot water. Felt alone, alone, alone. Lost.

Fuck.

And imagine how my father felt all the time now.

Later...

I went to McDonald's with my father and sister and sat with them while they ate. Then went to Sears and Ace Hardware with my father. I gave him the keys to my car (his old car) and he drove for the first time in three weeks. My sister and I went to Goodwill to get me some clothes while Dad fixed the water heater.

When we came back to the townhouse, my father left to go to Ikea with another bro-in-law. He asked me if it was okay if he went, asked me if it was all right. Of course it was all right. Live your life. Do what feels good. As he hugged me goodbye, he said, "I promise I'll throw out all those sprays."

I wondered if this was going to be the last thing between us. Would I never see him again and this is what we would remember? What I would remember?

It was all too hard and sad.

I sat outside by myself and wondered what the fuck I was doing there.

I wondered what it would be like to be in a place or with a group of people who were always glad to see me, who welcomed me home, whose faces lit up when they saw me. Like Mario when he sees me. Wouldn't it be nice if there was more than one person who really liked me around? Who really valued me?

Who valued each one of us.

My sister and I took at walk before I left. We talked about what a good man my father was. How he just lives his life. How he faces life. Goes through it.

Then I was on the road again. Three hour drive home because of traffic. Mario had spring rolls awaiting me when I got home. I wonder if he will ever know how much I love and appreciate him. I would be bereft without him.

That night, last night, I dreamed I went to a healer. She had all these little gadgets for me to help heal me. I told her I had once thought I would be a healer but it didn't work out. I had too many doubts.

It was a long dream. I think it may have been the end of the world.

Or the beginning.

Ahhhh, I've talked too long. I can hardly keep my eyes open.

This afternoon as a big old coyote hid from my view and watched me, I walked to the Quail House. Once inside, I started a new novel, The Blue Tail.

We'll see what happens.

I had more to say. Or less to say. I'm not sure which.

May the coyotes sing for you. May the owls hoot for you. And I, I will root for you.

Always.

Blessed sea.

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Wednesday, January 02, 2008

Taking Care 

It’s night at the Old Mermaid Sanctuary. A strong wind rattles the dry leaves in the palm tree just outside our door. The great horned owl is long gone, I’d imagine, out hunting. I haven’t heard any coyotes. No animals sounds of any kind. Just the wind in the palm tree. And then silence. Profound, dark silence.

It’s been a time. I have appreciated all your kind words and wishes for me and my family. As Joanna says, love, love, love. I still feel so unmoored. I’m having excruciating back pain. This morning I got out of bed and a few minutes later, I felt this spasm in my side. It was as though a muscle decided to pull one of my ribs out of place. I was in tears—and in agony. After I put hot towels on it and took a hot shower and then a hot bath, Mario and I went into the desert and walked for about an hour. We also talked. He thinks it’s TMS. I wondered if it was from a too soft bed or from driving 15 hours the day before. (I couldn’t do any yoga, by the way; that’s how bad it was.)

Mario pointed out that I always feel as though I have to fix things. I feel the need to solve problems and make things better. I said, ‘don’t you feel that way?’ ‘No,’ he said. ‘Hmm,’ I said. ‘I thought nearly everyone was like that.’ ‘No,’ he said again. I can’t bring my mother back, and I can’t help my father. I can’t make anything better right now.

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And I keep thinking of everything I’m doing wrong. I hate it when adult children treat their parents like children. When I was in Santa Cruz to see my father and sister and her husband, we went to the Forest of Nisene Marks, where I’d been several years earlier. I wanted to show my father the redwoods there. I found out my father had not eaten since early in the morning, and now it was about seven hours later. My father has to eat something every two or three hours or his blood sugar drops (or something) and he gets depressed and has other symptoms. He’s just getting over an illness (the shingles) and he’s still reeling from my mother’s death. Right now I feel like he needs someone to watch over him, just like any person would under these circumstances no matter what their age. Anyway, I was chastising my brother-in-law for not making sure my father ate, and my father was getting a little annoyed with me. I realized later that I was probably sounding like one of those adult children who treats their parent like a child. I didn’t mean to do that, and I keep worrying over these kinds of things.

I feel as though I am failing at everything. I know this is wrong thinking.

Ten minutes before my back went into spasm, I was in bed looking up at the ceiling and wishing I could stay here forever. And then one of the many little voices in my leetle brain said, “Bad things can happen here too.”

Well, of course they can! This is where I developed allergies and asthma and where my whole life went into a terrible downward spin for so many years...

Anyway, soon after that my father called and soon after that, my back spasmed.

By the way, in the middle of the redwoods, away from the ocean, mind you, I discovered two seashells. Near this huge old redwood off the trail. I thought they were mushrooms at first, but then I saw they weren’t. I said, ‘Dad, look. The Old Mermaids have been here. Remember from the book, if you find a seashell away from the ocean it means a mermaid just found her tail.’ Near to it was a circle. Perhaps someone left the shells as offerings.

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Did they pray to an Old Mermaid? Does this mean I’m the Old Mermaid who heard their prayers?

I wish you happiness, good health, and much love.

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Today I sat by the pool, the beautiful curving pool that has an Old Mermaid painted in the bottom of it...at least it does in my imagination and in Church of the Old Mermaids. The old owl slept in the palm tree above me, buffeted but seemingly unmoved by the winds. Across from me was a statue of part of a woman. I love the art here. There is something new every year. This partial woman turned up last year. She has no legs or hands. I don’t like this. I’m not saying it’s bad art; I’m only saying I don’t like it. I don’t like dismembered art. Never have. Every time I look at this woman thing, I think of violence and helplessness. I want to run over and reattach her hands which are on the ground near her—and fashion her new legs and tell her to run, run, run to safety. I see this place as a healing place, and the dismembered woman doesn’t fit with that. There are also heads in my enclosed garden this year. Four of them. Quite gruesome. I want them gone. Every time I step outside, I have to avert my eyes. It’s not restful or healing. Will I grow accustomed to them? Last year I didn’t go out to the pool side much. I couldn’t stand seeing the dismembered woman. Today I just stared at her.

We got here in the dark. The headlights of the car lit up the shovel I’d found in the wash so many years ago, the shovel that became the tail of an Old Mermaid, in real life and in the novel.

I’m so tired and sad. I feel stingy. There is so much I have. I remember the quote by e. e. cummings, probably because I’ve read it here somewhere at the Old Mermaid Sanctuary: ‘I thank you God for this most amazing day, for the leaping greenly spirits of trees, and for the blue dream of sky and for everything which is natural, which is infinite, which is yes.’

I had more to say. But my back is aching. Everything is aching. Maybe I’ll read for a bit. Or just close my eyes. Perhaps I’ll dream. The Old Mermaids will come into my dreams and take care of me.

Maybe one of the Old Mermaids will be my mother.

Six hours later. Awaken from a dream. It’s long and complicated, but in the end, I’m in a car that my mother is driving. I’m in the back. My father sits next to her. She doesn’t look like my real mother. I ask her a question and she can’t remember the answer. She pulls the car over and says there are so many things she doesn’t remember. She looks at me and then hugs my father. “Tell Kim it’ll be all right,” she says.

I awaken. It takes a long time to go back to sleep. I take another bath to alleviate the pain in my back. I’m so exhausted I can’t think or feel. I nearly fall to sleep in the hot water.

Morning. The rash on my hands has started. Sometimes I wonder why I come here every year. The first year I had a bad rash on my back, plus there was an obnoxious dog here which kept me confined to certain parts of the property and I got pricked by nearly every cactus on the property. The second year I had another rash, but I also wrote Church of the Old Mermaids. Last year I remembered to bring white cotton gloves, so I didn’t get a rash. And I wrote another novel, The Old Mermaid Sanctuary. Now I’ve got a backache and a rash. And there are heads growing in my garden. When I’m here for a month, these nuisances fade. Since I’ll be here less than two weeks, I wonder if I’ll have time to acclimate.

Still, the Old Owl is here, quail flutter as we walk the property, and I found bobcat prints in the wash. Magic awaits. I know it. Or I used to know it. We’ll see.

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Wednesday, January 31, 2007

Crazy Thresholds 

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Yesterday we went to Mexico for the day. We had read in many places that we now needed proof that we owned our car; otherwise, we couldn't take it to Mexico. We didn't have our title, so we decided to rent a car. We went to a place in Nogales. The people were very nice, but the inside of the car was the ickiest of any car we've ever rented. But c'est la vie. We took it and we drove across the border.

No problemo. We drove through Nogales and got onto highway 15. About ten miles out of town we had to stop and get a tourist pass. We haven't driven in Mexico in twenty years, and this was new. If I hadn't read somewhere that we needed these, we wouldn't have known to stop. But we pulled off and went into this small white building with blue trim. They didn't speak English, and my Spanish is almost non-existent these days, so it was interesting. We filled out the forms, and then the woman said, "banco," which I assumed meant the cashier (bank), so we went back outside into the rain and the cold and got into line. There were other English speakers there and it seemed we had to get copies of everything.

So I went back to this tiny booth with two young women in it. They didn't look at me or anyone else, and they didn't say a word. I handed them our passports, driver's licenses, Mexican car insurance receipt, and the registration to our rented car. They made copies and handed them back to me, and I gave them money. It was mildly surreal. Then back into line again. Once we got to the "cashier," behind plexiglass windows, we learned we didn't need all those things. I said, "We're only going to be here for the day." Still, we had to pay $22 each to come into the country. (This seems acceptable if you're coming there for a week or a month, but for four hours? I've travelled to many countries, and I don't remember ever having to pay to get in.) The whole process took an hour.

We finally were on the road again. I wanted to get out into the countryside a bit and away from the border. I've always loved the colors in Mexico, the vibrancy of the colors. We didn't have time (or the resources) to go deep into Mexico, so this day was all we were going to get. Many of the photographs you'll see were taken in Magdalena. As usual, I am fascinated by doors. I do believe that thresholds, borders, boundaries can be profound, magical, beautiful, and/or awful places.

Some of the photographs were taken along the road (drive-bys). I didn't take many photos of the trash. There was trash everywhere. When I travelled through Europe, I noticed that some countries had terrible trash problems, and some countries didn't. Mario said this would be a great subject for a book. I said it wasn't one I was going to write. But how trash and garbage evolves. When do government entities come into being to deal with these kinds of things? Etc. Mario wondered if when we were children was there a great deal more trash in both our countries (Canada and United States). I have never littered in my life, except maybe accidentally. Trash and garbage spread across the earth has always distressed me. I remember this from when I was a child. I even remember chiding my father for dumping cigarette butts in a parking lot when I was a girl.

I did try to take photographs of the squallor in Nogales as we were leaving the country. I wasn't able to get many good photographs. It is appalling that there is so much poverty within yards of our country. It is appalling that in our own country there is so much poverty (i.e. Louisiana, Mississippi).

And of course, the Virgin of Guadalupe was everywhere. You can go here to see some of the photos I took this journey. (Mario took the photographs of the hills.)

After we left Magdalena, we went out into the country more. It was a beautiful drive through golden hills (mountains?). I kept thinking if I drove far enough I would find an Old Mermaid Sanctuary, I would find the place where I would live the rest of my life. I have this village, this town, in my mind, in my heart, and I thought I might find it in these mountains. We didn't find a town at all. I told Mario that I was sure I'd find some evidence of the Old Mermaids. Something. He reminded me that we'd seen a mural in Magdalena of a seascape.

All day I kept wondering how to create the life I want. How do I make a life that is sustainable, where Mario and I have a good home and good work, where I am contributing and creating my community. I've been feeling melacholy now that I've finished Old Mermaid Sanctuary because I realized I liked being there better than I like being here. So how do I make what I write into reality. Is that possible? Is it wise? Or have my expectations been warped by my wonderful imagination? I want an Old Mermaid Sanctuary here. In some aspects, I want Myla's life. I don't remember feeling this way before. In any case, we had an interesting time together, and we decided to head home before dark.

Then we drove toward la frontera. The line of trucks trying to cross the border was so long. We guessed it was at least a three hour wait. Fortunately we took a wrong turn and we got into a line that was only thirty minutes long. When it was our turn, we drove up to the booth. Three border people were there, two men probably my age and a woman who was in her thirties (maybe).

Mario opened the window and we heard one of the men saying, "I heard the more accurate translation of Crazy Horse's name is Enchanted Horse. Now doesn't that sound better than Crazy Horse?"

The woman asked us of what country were we citizens. We told her. She took our passports and ran them through a scanner in her little booth. She asked us how long we had been gone and what we'd done while we were in Mexico. She asked if we had any fruits or vegetables. I told her no, the cooler had food in it that we'd brought with us from Tucson. While we were having this conversation, this other border guard was still talking about "crazy" and "enchanted."

"Don't you like enchanted better? Enchanted bear." I wondered why he was going on and on about this. And who was Enchanted Bear?

The woman, who was very professional and human, asked us where we lived. We told her. I said we came to Tucson for a month every year. (In case she wondered why we had come all the way from Washington to go to Mexico for a few hours.) I said it had been cold and rainy all day. Then she said we could go. I forget how she said it because that other guard was talking about enchanted bear, and then I noticed what the woman's name was. The guards all had their last names sewn into their jackets. Hers was Crazy Bear. Just then I looked to my right and saw a beautiful huge glorious double rainbow. Mario started to pull away and Crazy Bear and I looked at each other and I pointed to the rainbow. She frowned, not sure what I meant, and then she looked at the rainbow and smiled as we drove away. This rainbow looked as though it went from Nogales, AZ to Nogales, Sonora, Mexico.

The last two times that we'd been to Mexico, we've seen a beautiful rainbow. Probably didn't mean anything—except that it's been raining a lot here. But they are beautiful, a threshold we can never reach no matter how much we try. We can't ever get to the other side. Except maybe in our imaginations.

Is that enough?

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Monday, January 29, 2007

OMS: First Draft 

I finished the first draft of Old Mermaid Sanctuary at a little after 5:00 p.m. (Mario thinks it should be The Old Mermaid Sanctuary and I think it should be An Old Mermaid Sanctuary, since part of the point is that there isn't just one Old Mermaid Sanctuary, but "the" does sound better.) It's almost 80,000 words. (That's about 300 pages.) Once I rewrite it, I'm sure I'll add and drop. Myla went on quite an adventure this time. Some of it was hard for me. I had trouble with a lot of things that were happening in the book. I finally just had to relax and let it happen. It's very different from Church of the Old Mermaids, but it is very much in the spirit of COTOM. This is good because I didn't want to just tell the same story again. That would be boring. What I thought would happen did not happen. This is good, too. Once a book takes over, I usually know it's really its own thing and not something I am manipulating.

All day today while I was in the Quail House completing the book, a phainopepla kept tapping on the window. Sometimes he would cling to the window—I'm not really certain how this was physically possible—and sometimes he would tap on the window. Every once in a while he'd fly and then tap. I was afraid he was going to hurt himself. I went outside to try and figure out what he was seeing, so I could change it. But I couldn't figure it out. Was he just seeing the desert reflected? If so, "turn around, darlin'! There's the real thing." I moved things around on the window sill. I put books there to try and block the view, but nothing worked. I vaguely remember this happening last year, so maybe he knows what he's doing, or at least he doesn't hurt himself while not knowing what he's doing.

My parents came Saturday night and left Sunday. It was great seeing them and spending time with them. And today I finished the first draft of the book. Tomorrow we're driving to Nogales, renting a car, and then driving across the border and going down further so I can do some research. (It is such a pain in the ass to take your own car to Mexico now. You have to prove you own it. Which means you need the title. Well, nobody carries their title in their car! If someone stole your car, they'd have the title and they could do whatever they wanted with it. Next year we may spend a week or more there, so we'll bring the title.) After Mexico I'm resting and relaxing for the rest of the time we're here. We head home Sunday.

So you might not hear from me for a while.

P.S. Did I mention there's going to be a third Old Mermaids novel? I'm not sure of the title because I don't know exactly what's it's going to be about. Maybe Siren Songs of the Old Mermaids. I'm not sure. But I've very excited about where the second one ended, and where the third one will pick up again.

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Thursday, January 25, 2007

Offering 

These reports are from the Humane Borders trip sheets various volunteers fill out when they refill the barrels at the water stations. They are reports from a variety of water runs, at various stops. I put them in date order. I also put some punctuation in when I felt it was needed for sense. To me, these entries have a simple lovely narrative. You'll see place names; they're mostly the names of the water stations. Don't concern yourself that you don't know where they are. BP is Border Patrol, so is la migra. Humane Borders is a humanitarian organization whose volunteers take water into the desert to keep people from dying there.


3/16/05
Met two migrants north of BA North station. Tried to call BP. Put on hold and flagged down passing truck.

4/02/05
South of mile post 32 we encountered a migrant walking south named Jorge. Jorge was from Mexico City, crossed the border alone and fell during the night. He had injured both of his legs. He requested that we call the Border Patrol to take him back to Mexico. We gave him water, food, and hygienic products and waited for the Border Patrol to pick him up.

4/30/05
One man walking north on 286, carrying gallon of water. We pulled up to ask if he needed help—at the same time BP drove up facing north and talked with him.

5/5/05
Both stations vandalized. Replaced flag at west station. Refilled both barrels at E. Station, replaced one faucet.

5/06/05
Moved east station away from RR no trespassing sign, a little further east by cattleguard and fence.

5/12/06
Uneventful.

5/14/05
6 migrants near Manville Road and Trico rd. They were in good condition, gave them food and water.

5/19/06
Good scones in Bisbee.

5/19/05
Good trip with Dutch tv crew. We picked up some trash. Saw lots of migrant tracks. Truck #3 engine light came on twice. Rough idle.

5/20/05
Tanks at the west station had the valves left open, flag down. We refilled the tanks and noticed that a minuteman was using the top 2 sections as a shade structure. Had a good conversation and he gave poles back. Wouldn’t give his name, but he had a Jeep Wrangler, Colorado License.

5/25/05
East station had been vandalized (twice by the looks of it). Someone had left gallon jugs at the station to take place of water. Not sure if it was our volunteers or the legal observers down there. There was a reference to ACLU.

5/28/05
Minutemen were camped at BR west. Touched up all the barrels with paint. BR west flag poles were all bent.

6/1/05
Young man from Guatemala beside Highway 92, between Sierra Vista and Paloverde. BP was already there. He appeared OK but had been in desert 2 days without food but had water. We gave him 2 food packets. Left him with officers awaiting pick up.

Flag pole at West Station vandalized, with pole down and broken. We replaced the pole and flag.

6/6/05
Yrena was knocked down but unharmed. Same with South Frink and Hope Springs.

6/27/05
Rattlesnakes! Both tanks shot up. No water left must be replaced.

6/27/05
Lots of Border Patrol out. Planes, trucks, vans and cars locating people on the Frink South Station.

7/11/05
4 migrants on bikes at Poplar Grove. Gave food and water.

7/13/05
Encountered a few teenagers and 2 adults on Manville and Avra Valley Road. Gave them 6 small water bottles and 4 big 1 gallon bottles. Also gave them 7-8 food bags. They said they just arrived to the US today at 4:00 a.m. and were involved in an accident. No one was hurt. At this point the border patrol arrived.

7/18/05
Yrena vandalized.

7/22/05
One gentleman encountered on David Rd. southeast of Tombstone.

There was a Border Patrol Agent parked at the East Station. We collected his name and information in case we want to make inquiry.

7/23/05
4 migrants encountered from Guatemala.

7/29/05
Met 5 migrants from Honduras—gave food and water. They haven’t eaten in 2 days. Destination Phoenix.

7/30/05
Central American named Manicio? from Guatemala was left behind from a group of 30, had been walking 17 days from Altar. Heading to Phoenix. A final destination: California. Looked remarkably strong and healthy.

7/30/05
Stuck in the mud at Brawley so—used jack, manpower, to get out.

8/10/05
Saw a group of 12 cross 86 on way to Cowtown.

8/12/05
Border Patrol was staking out Border Road East.

9/3/05
No More Deaths volunteers let us know that the BA South station had been drained and the flag bent. They straightened the flag for us. We filled the barrels.

9/9/05
2 young men from Vera Cruz, Mex on the Avro Valley road. Two men we encountered told us that 4 men were 1 hour behind them in desert were in bad shape. No water, no food, bad feet and wanted help. We met the border patrol members and helicopter at location and directed them in the location.

9/19/05
Engine light on.

10/22/05
Stopped for migrant needing help. Called border patrol to help him out. They came immediately. He asked us to get them because he wanted to return to Mexico and was lost and exhausted. Hunting season in PA, warning given, heard gunfire. Hunters Org. having large gathering at Pima Co. Emptied our tanks, ground soaking wet. We talked to them. We think Pima Co. should know what they have done.

11/19/05
2 men on bikes who ran away as we approached BA south.

12/31/05
Truck bed coming apart!

1/06/06
Manville was destroyed completely. Stand was gone and barrels were punctured. Flag missing.

1/21/06
2 men at 34.5 milepost. Fed, gave water. In good shape but had us call BP. Wanted to go back to Mexico. BP responded with 15 minutes.

2/4/06
We encountered 2 migrants walking along highway 286. We stopped and spoke with them. They wanted to know direction to Phoenix. After we pulled away the migra pulled up and took them in. They had been passed several times earlier that morning by border patrol.

2/18/06
1--2 packs of food; 2 packs of water
2--4 packs of food; 4 bottles of water

3/3/06
We encountered 2 mid 30-40 migrants and gave them food and water.
Lost bung wrench at one of the stops. Sorry.

4/15/06
2 men from Michoacan (at Cowtown) gave them water and several food packets.

4/15/06
Mile Post 35 BP were putting a group of men with back packs and h2o into truck. Several more BP vehicles heading south. Check engine—light is on.

BA South we found lots of activity recently—footprints, new bottles, empty, empty back pack, food containers and people. Lots of blue trail markers. Milepost 26—BP has set up a check point.

4/16/06
Several in a group stopped by Border Patrol at mile post 25.

4/19/06
Mile 28 young man 8:30 a.m. was OK, wanted to return to Mexico. Called BP.

4/22/06
BA South Station encountered 15-20 migrants in BP custody. (Film crew in tow.) Pima county gate locked with one lock. No access by vehicle. Need a new key or something.

4/29/06
Between Brawley wash stations, encountered 2 migrants. One had some difficulty walking. Called 911 Border Patrol to Pick up.

5/11/06
4 migrants and border patrol on Trico Road. Truck 3 needs food and water. Service brake booster message on gas.

5/13/06
BP had 7-8 migrants along Avia Valley Rd near the mine. BP refused to allow us to give them water.

5/20/06 2 migrants—didn’t need anything, crossed in 4 days and are camping near a water station.

5/26/06
Purdy Lane sign is gone. 2 Minute Men from Phoenix showed up and photographed us without introducing selves; only on the 3rd time did they answer my question about who they were; chlorine level low.

6/3/06
Please pick up farm jack from the store in Sasabe arizona. They are holding it for us.

6/13/06
Looked like cow ? chewed on spigot—barrel was empty because spigot was broken.

6/27/06
All 4 tanks were punctured and empty. We turned them over, but they need to be replaced!!!

7/8/06
Truck #4 Stolen pump!

BA North all 3 faucets were missing. Replaced and filled, power pole down 100 yards north of station.

7/9/06
Significant problem with little ranch. Bee’s have formed a hive on the underbelly of the one barrel—unable to reach water station—bee’s swarming.

7/16/06
Flag at Cot stolen. Replaced with new flag. Moderate footprints at Cot coming from south fence. Again swarm of bees at little ranch, punched hole in barrel belly where bees are gathered. Engine light on entire trip.

8/3/06
Heavy rain on the trip out. Delayed for 1/2 hour due to flooded tunnel. BR east: both barrels shot—bullets inside. Replaced both, but first replaced barrel—none of our bungs fit one hole. Second replacement barrel had knife cut in it 1/2 way up. Water pump problems. Tried again but several connections opened up spraying water everywhere. Finally gravity filled barrel up to level of knife cuts and the other now quite full. All barrels on truck 4 need to be checked and repaired.

8/11/06
3 men, 1 women. They had water, 1 man had bad blisters. We gave them food and bandaids, shoes and socks.

9/14/06
2 minutemen between Manville and Trico sitting in chairs with rifles.

10/7/06
Need flags. Replaced flag at Pima City. Flushed one tank at BA North because it looked rusty.

La migra seemed to be staking out the BA South station.

11/4/06
Please be careful when adding chlorine. The test strip at Brawley were very dark!!! BA South trashed, flag literally ripped in 5 segments, barrels emptied and overturned, stands thrown away from site.

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Moon Broken 

Guess what I just got? Okay, I can't wait for you to guess. Here's the answer: my author's copies of Broken Moon. (I gave the Powell's link, but you can order it anywhere, and/or ask your local library to get it.) Such fun! Its official release date is February 27. Then it will be completely out of my hands. It'll either sell well or it won't.

The sun is setting, so the clouds are pink, and the Catalinas are pink. And it is cool and windy so if we went outside I would be pink.

I have started other posts, but I haven't finished them. Been in a funk. Not sure why. Partly the weather. Partly having trouble with the novel. Partly other things that I don't need to burden you with. In the novel, The Old Mermaid Sanctuary, Myla has had some surprising things happen to her, and she's a bit adrift. And that's hard because if Myla ever was actually adrift in the Old Sea, I think she would be the one who would find the life raft, or put it together herself, and gather everyone up and put them on the raft. I'm sure things will turn out for our gal, but in the meanwhile, it's strange. And she went 100 pages without telling an Old Mermaid tale!

The good news is that I've used many of the Old Mermaid tales that I've posted on the blog in the book. At least I think that's good news. Some of those tales I am quite fond of, so it's great to be able to incorporate them into the novel. I always tell those tales in Myla's voice, so it was fairly easy, although I shortened some of them. Right now in the story, our intrepid gal is in Mexico. She's having trouble getting back home. That's all I'm saying.

You all know about my visit to the borderlands last week. This week I talked with an attorney who deals with asylum cases. She was very helpful, and I got the answers I needed for the book. She also told me about the Florence Project. They help get legal counsel for migrants. Legal aid attorneys are not provided to people who are facing deportation, so this group tries to fill that gap at the Florence and Eloy detention centers.

I also learned from this lawyer a bit about what happens during the asylum process. (Someone might apply for asylum because they've been tortured in their country and they have a fear that it'll happen again if they go back.) After they apply for asylum, they have to wait for an appointment with an asylum officer. This person can grant the asylum, or they can say they don't think there are grounds for asylum, and then there is a hearing before a judge where the lawyer for the refugee can argue the case—and the Feds can argue against letting the refugee in. But the interview with the asylum officer can be rather arduous, to put it mildly. These interviews can go on for hours, with the asylum officer trying to prove that someone wasn't really tortured. "So first you say you were beaten for fifteen minutes and now you say it was twenty minutes? I think you're lying." Someone who has been tortured often suffers from memory loss to begin with—and can you imagine how traumatizing being interrogated like this can be, especially if your torture began with an interrogation in the first place! She said the asylum officer often doesn't understand the difference in cultures. For someone in parts of Africa, for instance, they view time in seasons. "It happened during the rainy season." To the asylum officer that reference of time can seem to vague, and they can use it as a reason not to believe the refugee.

Also this week, I spent more time at Humane Borders headquarters. Every time someone does a water run, they fill out a trip sheet. They make comments about what they find at the water stations and if they've had any encounters with migrants. I sat in a room for two hours looking through just a small portion of these trip sheets. They are a fascinating historical record. I asked if I could post some of these, so I will do that later. To me, it's a kind of narrative. And I'm percolating a way to incorporate this kind of storytelling into a novel.

We also chatted with Robin Hoover, the founder of Humane Borders. (I got to see what a blackberry is. No, I had never seen one before.) My experience has been that people who accomplish great things are often bigger than life, opinionated, driven, and sometimes annoying. My guess is that Robin Hoover is all of these things, which is to the benefit of the people he is helping. We need more people with vision and the ability to make their vision into reality.

After that, Mario and I went to Humane Borders weekly meeting. More than twenty-five people attended. (I say "more than" because I counted twenty-five but a few more people came in later and I didn't count them.) I was impressed with their committment. And there was no showboating during the meeting. No power trips. No one trying to impress anyone else—unless I'm really dense, and I'm not. I'm usually fairly sharp about those kinds of things. They talked about trips they'd taken and the evidence they'd seen regarding the further militarization of the border: heavily armed guardsmen, more Border Patrols, lots of machinery for building things like walls. It's sad at so many levels. We're not at war with Mexico, but you couldn't swear by that at some places along the border.

All right. This post had a point, but I lost it. Help! Help! I've lost my point.

May I borrow yours?

Sorry. I'm a bit weary.

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Friday, January 19, 2007

Bridges 

This morning we awakened to rain. We went out into a glorious cool morning, and I could smell the rain. Or I could smell the desert after a rain. What a miracle it was to be able to smell. And there is nothing like the desert after a rain. Everything is plump and juicy and ecstatic. I told Mario it's like being in a world where everyone and everything got lucky the night before.

We headed down to Nogales, Mexico, to go to the No More Deaths tent just across the border. Part of the reason I wanted to do this was for research for my novel Old Mermaid Sanctuary. But immigration is also an issue I have been interested in and involved with (on the periphery) for many years. As this country seems to drift further and further away from our ideals, it then becomes the responsibility of the citizens to make our ideals visible through us and our actions. Part of what I want to do with both COTOM and Old Mermaid Sanctuary is to tell migrant stories. My husband is an immigrant. Both his parents endured great hardship to leave their countries in hopes of a better life. Nearly all of us who live in this country are here because an ancestor left his or her country to come here.

So with all this in mind, we headed down south. I had gotten directions from two people who volunteered with No More Deaths. They both told me that Gilberto would be at the tent, and he knew English and he could answer any questions I had. When you normally drive to Nogales to cross the border, you go to the end of Highway 19—or almost to the end. You park your car across from the Burger King and walk across the border. Today, we got off at exit 4 and followed the truck route. We turned the wrong way, so we got lost for a little bit. Then we followed the road as it wound around in the desert for a while. Then we came to what looked like a truck stop. I saw concrete blocks which was where Shura had told me to park. All around the parking lot were men, watching and waiting—I don't know what they were waiting for; they just had that air. Several of them were on cell phones. Shura had told me to park the car and then walk toward the chain link fence. There were chain link fences everywhere. And there were semitrucks everywhere lined up to go through one gate. I'm sure there was some kind of order, but it seemed like chaos to me. The air pulsed with the sound of these trucks. The wind was blowing. It was cold. If we went where the trucks were going, I couldn't see that we'd end up anywhere. But I couldn't see a pedestrian entrance. It was like being in a very confusing noisy industrial park. We didn't know where to go or what to do.

Finally I asked a man who was walking by how we got into Mexico. He didn't speak English. So I asked a woman. She thought I wanted to be on the U.S. side, but I told her I was going to the tent on the other side, the No More Deaths tent. She seemed to think that was a bit strange (or I was), but in her accented English she kindly told me where to go. I thanked her, and then we were separated by an orange fence. She smiled at me, and I smiled at her, and we both shrugged at the divide and went our separate ways. There was something sad and poignant about our separation that I can't really explain, except that I know we both felt it; I saw it in her eyes as the bars came between us.

Mario and I went through the turnstile and were in Mexico. It's always amazing to me all the fuss there is to get into this country and absolutely no fuss to go into Mexico. Two lanes of road were backed up from as far as I could see with cars waiting to get into the United States. The sun reflected off the tops of the cars, and I couldn't look at them. The road going into Mexico was empty. Concrete blocks were everywhere, it seemed, trying to keep something out, making it barely a road. Mario and I couldn't figure out where to go.

truckroute

In the near distance I saw a big building. Shura had told me to look for the customs building, so Mario and I walked toward that, weaving in and out of moving cars and people. We crossed the road and walked past a long line of men. We reached the building and I saw the No More Deaths tent.

nomoredeathsbanner

As we got near to the small white tent with a small trailer next to it, two Anglo women inside turned toward us. One said, "Are you Kim?" I said that I was. I went toward them and introduced myself and Mario. In the back of the tent, a man stood by the stove cooking. I asked if he was Gilberto. He said that he was. I asked him if Shura had told him who I was and what I was doing. I repeated that I was a writer and I wanted to ask some questions if that was all right with everyone, and I told him I could help out, too.

The tent was open on one end, closed where Gilberto stood by the stove. Behind Gilberto was a mound of clothes; I assumed those were extra clothes for the migrants. On the south side of the narrow tent, four migrants sat: three women and one man. They sat in chairs, but there was a cot near the opening of the tent with a wet sleeping bag on it. On the north side of the tent was a table with a mishmash of supplies on it: food, water, papertowels, cutlery, etc. Near the opening of the tent were the first aid supplies. The dirt floor was wet and muddy. The two volunteers for No More Deaths were organizing the supplies.

I squatted next to the migrants and asked if they spoke English. None of them did. I asked Gilberto if he would mind translating. He agreed to do that. (I don't know how he was able to do that and everything else he did, but he did it. He was cooking. He was getting coffee. He was talking to people. If he does this for twenty-four hours a day, I don't know how it's humanly possible.)

And so I began speaking with Alicia, Theresa, Phillipe, and Caterina. (I have their last names, but I don't want to post them on the oft chance I might inadvertently cause them trouble.) Alicia and Theresa were very shy. Theresa kept her hand over her mouth most of the time, even when she spoke softly. Caterina and Phillipe were brother and sister, and they talked with me the most. I asked them all if they had been treated well when they were picked up by la migra. They said they had been. They were given crackers and water, and no one was hurt. I asked them why they had tried to cross illegally. They said they wanted "a better life for my family." I asked if there weren't job where they lived. Phillipe said there were jobs, but the pay was bad. They said they could make about $4 a day.

(By the way, in case you haven't heard, the price of tortillas in Mexico has been going up and up. Most Mexicans eat about ten tortillas a day—at least that's what I read recently and now I can't find where. Tortillas are a staple of the Mexican diet and of their economy. When NAFTA came into being, American corn growers dumped their cheap corn on Mexico. That put the small growers and tortilla makers out of business. WalMart came in with cheap tortillas and took a big chunk out of the market. Now American corn growers are selling their corn for ethanol which leaves Mexico without corn and with the farmers out of business that leaves a shortage of corn and tortillas so price gouging occurs. I'm sure I missed something or got something wrong in this summary, but that's the gist of it, I believe.)

Anyway, the four migrants I talked with were each leaving children behind, thirteen in all. They felt they had to do this so that they could come to America and make some money. They all said they wanted to stay a few months, make some money, and then return home. Gilberto said, "When they get to the other side, the chollos are waiting for them. They have guns and they rob them." I asked if the chollos—gangsters, he said—were Americans or Mexicans. "Oh no," he said. "They are Mexicans. Sometimes they make the women take off all her clothes and they see if she's hiding anything up there. Sometimes they rape the women. One man came in here, tears coming down his face, and he say they raped his wife. Fifteen years old." I said that was very sad. (Understatement of the year, but that's about all I knew how to say in Spanish.) They all agreed if was very triste.

I had Gilberto ask the migrants if they had just been robbed by chollos. They had been. Phillipe described with his hands that they had taken the money in his wallet, his ring, the chain around his neck. He said there was nothing he could do because they put a gun to his head.

I asked Gilberto why the guia—the coyote—didn't take the migrants on a different route if the chollos waited in the same spot all the time. He said the coyotes were in on it. When the chollos robbed the migrants, they always asked, "Who is the guia? Then they take him aside. They don't rob him." I asked if they could cross without a guide. They said no. They needed someone else on the other side to pick them up, and the guia knew the way through the desert.

I asked if the desert trek was very difficult. Phillipe said to get across it was about eighteen hours, but it wasn't too bad. He said they saw coyotes, the canine kind, and the Border Patrol told them there was a mountain lion up by Tucson. I asked Gilberto if the Border Patrol was telling the truth or just trying to scare them. He said they were trying to "make them afraid."

I asked if crossing was different now than it used to be. They all said it was much more dangerous. They said it would be easier if they could just come across and work and then go home again.

I asked Gilberto if he knew of women with children at home and without husbands who were crossing. (He didn't know what I meant when I asked about single women. I have heard that thousands of single women live in this country, work, and send money back home to children they may not see for years.) He said he did know of some women like that. "But they shouldn't do it. No, they should stay home."

I asked for permission to take pictures of them, and they all agreed.

tent
Shura, Theresa, Caterina, Alicia, Phillipe, Gilberto

The other volunteers left, and Mario and I helped prepare a meal. Mario cut up tomatoes and onions for huevos that Gilberto was making. More people came into the tent. I helped get coffee. A man came in who was very hungry. He quickly ate several tortillas and beans. Gilberto made the huevos (scrambled eggs, tomatoes, onions), and then Mario and I served the migrants. We gave them all forks, which was silly. They just wrapped the huevos up in the tortillas and ate them that way.

tent2
Alicia, unknown, Gilberto

After everyone had eaten, Mario and I decided it was time to go. I shook hands with everyone and thanked them. They thanked me, too. Caterina put her hand over mine and said something very kind, but I didn't know what. (I understood some of what they were saying, even though my Spanish is twenty years gone. I think if I was someplace Spanish-speaking I would pick it up fairly quickly again. I certainly picked up the rhythm of speech within minutes. I'm an unconscious mimic that way.) I asked Gilberto to ask them to all be careful. He repeated what I said in Spanish, and everyone in the tent responded to that. They looked at us and nodded, said gracias. We could tell it was something they appreciated—something they were concerned about.

Then we left. We made our way through the concrete jungle back toward the turnstile. Cars, cars, cars everywhere. I couldn't really digest any of it because it was so overstimulating—I just concentrated on not getting hit by a car. Finally we approached a single guard who asked us what our citizenship was. And then we went on through, crossed another street, and got into our car.

Before we went home, we decided to go to the tourist part of Nogales. We got back on 19 and drove to the end, parked by the Burger King, and walked to Mexico. This entrance was much quieter, less cacophonous. I wanted to see again the white crosses on the border fence; each one represented a migrant who had died trying to cross the border.

whitecrosses

crosses2

I also wanted to buy something. If my dollars could help a family that was trying to live on $4 a day, I wanted to do that. We walked down the streets and responded as each barker tried to get us to go into their store. I enjoy the banter. When I do go into a store, I'm always amazed that they all seem to think we are rich. Today I realized that if someone is trying to live on $4 a day, we are rich, no matter what we may think.

I bought something for $13 from a Mayan woman: a rattle, box, a ceramic cat for the woman who is taking care of our house. We got a ceramic sun from another shop. After we bought it, we stood outside talking to the man next to a huge pile of cow skulls. Georgia O'Keeffe would have loved it. He told us that after it rained, like today, and the sun came out, the skulls would really start to stink. I said, "Those are a lot of dead cows." Steers, I guess they were, because they had horns. He said they're from slaughterhouses. The skulls are put out into the desert until they're just bone.

Later we stopped by a shop that had beautiful finely woven rugs. I was admiring these works of art and letting the man show me rug after rug when I realized that I was wasting his time. He was trying to make a living and I was looking at rugs I could not afford. We did buy a red kokopelli blanket from him, however.

By this time, we were exhausted. Most Americans are not accustomed to this kind of shopping, including us. And I am not accustomed to shopping at all. We left Nogales and headed home. Soon after we got on the freeway, a golden eagle came straight for our car but veered off just before I hit it. I had to actually brake on an expressway to keep from hitting an eagle.

About thirty miles up the road, we had to stop a checkpoint. The Border Patrol was set up under Agua Linda Road. As our car neared where the officer was, I got angrier and angrier. What has happened to our country? How have we let ourselves come to this? This was the United States of freaking America and I was being subjected to a police search without cause, without notice, without reason. It is outrageous. The blond boy looked at our lily white faces and waved us past.

Mario patted my leg and said, "It's all right."

"It's not all right," I said. "It's really not all right. We're just lucky we look like what their version of an American is."

Once we neared Tucson, the drive got tedious. Too many long desert roads with too many cars and too many lights. We were exhausted. Then we saw the storm over the Catalinas. And the light. And the clouds. We opened the window and breathed deeply. The Rincon Mountains weren't visible, covered in storm clouds or dusk or mystery.

storm

We followed the rainbow home. Drove right over it as though it were a bridge. How easy it was for us.

I wish the world had more bridges and less walls.

Wouldn't that be grand?

bridges

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Agua 

On Monday I spoke with two women who volunteer for Humane Borders. Elizabeth and Audrey very kindly told me how a group of people from various walks of life with many different faith traditions decided they wanted to help prevent migrants from dying as they traversed the Arizona desert. How best to do that? Most of the fatalities were caused by dehydration, so the volunteers who became Humane Border decided to put water out in the desert for the migrants. There are now more than eighty watering stations on this side of the border (and they donated some for the other side of the border, too). Each station is marked with a blue flag. Elizabeth told me that she has met people in other states who told her they saw the blue flags and they drank the water, so she has seen firsthand how her work has benefited other.

It seems like such a simple idea, doesn't it? Sometimes I think there is no way to fix all the problems in the world. We've got to do this, that, and the other. I remember someone telling me once that if everyone did just one thing, really devoted time and energy to one thing, then eventually all the things would get fixed. The people at Humane Borders are holding out water to thirsty people. I love the elegance of this solution. When someone is dying of thirst in the desert, I doubt they are thinking about international politics or how to fix global economics. They don't need that. They need water.

Of course, actually putting up and then maintaining these water stations isn't exactly simple. They need to keep the barrels filled with water, replace ones that are stolen or damaged, and regularly pick up litter and replace first aid kits and emergency rations at the water stations.

I admire these people, for their solution, their efforts, and their great kindness.

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Sunday, January 14, 2007

Found 

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Valarie James and her colleagues Antonia Gallegos, Cesar Lopez, and Deborah McCullough took pieces of discarded clothing found in the Arizona desert, most of it probably dropped by passing migrants, pulped these pieces, and blended the pulp with Sonoran Desert plants to create Las Madres.

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Each figure stands in vigil, each Mother "represents over 1000 men, women and children who have lost their lives crossing the desert." If you look at my photographs and the photographs on the website, you'll see that the figures are changing, are breaking down, just as Valarie James expected and intended.

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They are beautiful and moving. I first heard about them at the Border Issues Fair I attended on Saturday. I told Valarie later, in an e-mail, that I was stunned to see these figures, particularly after writing Church of the Old Mermaids, which deals with migrants lost in the desert. Myla and her friends create community at the sanctuary where she takes the migrant by transforming what they find, what has been discarded, into art and stories.

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You can see these amazing pieces yourself at Pima Community College in Tucson at their east campus.

Beautiful. Thanks, Valarie.

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Saturday, January 13, 2007

The Pink Shoe 

Today Mario and I attended the Borders Issues Fair put on by the Santa Cruz Valley Border Issues Coalition. This was the third year of this fair, and it was held in Green Valley, which is about an hour from where we're living. People were there from Borderlinks, No More Deaths, Las Madras Project, Just Coffee, Humane Borders, Samaritans, and other organizations, most of them faith-based. The large meeting room was filled with hundreds people, most of them over sixty, most of them middle-class Anglos. Mario and I spent the day in their company being amazed, inspired—and sometimes in tears.

We had a moment of silence, and then the speakers began. They were all good. Those who lived in la frontera, in the region near the border, said they felt as though they were in a "low-intensity war." Black hawk helicopters and the Border Patrols were a daily part of their lives. They could be stopped at any time, and they were, on the pretext of national security, and they had to show ID. The Border Patrol, and now the local police who were helping them, were often belligerent with the members of this community when they asked for ID. (These are American citizens, by the way, living right here in Arizona.)

The speakers talked about the root causes of illegal immigration. They talked about global economics and "savage capitalism" which devastates communities. (Multi-global corporations, dumping of products, etc.) The Reverend Delle McCormick gave statistics about the poverty in Mexico. The Reverend Mark Adams talked about the coffee cooperative he and others started on the borderlands. Joseph Nevins gave a historical prospective on immigration and immigration laws in the United States over time.

Joseph Nevins talked about mobility being a basic human right. He said, "Security in the United is a 'god' word, something universally embraced and insufficiently questioned." Despite all the billions of dollars that have been spent on border "security," just as many people get into this country illegally as before they spent billions of dollars. (Mark Adams said they lent the coffee cooperative $20,000, and now that cooperative is supporting 37 families. Imagine what could have been done with all those billions of dollars. If people can feed their families, they don't want to leave their own lands.)

Nevins said, "Despite a massive buils up in resources, drugs and migrants still cross. About 1/3 get caught. 92/97% eventually succeed. There's no difference between before and after the build up at the border....Political actors have exaggerated the security threat. They say there hasn't been any attacks since 9/11, but there weren't any attacks the 5 years befor 9/11 when they had spent much less." (Did you know 25% of the prisoners in the world are in our jails, even though we have 5% of the world's population?)

Nevins said we need to change the language of the debate on this issue. He pointed out that the Minutemen are using the deaths in the borderlands as a reason to have increased border security. Nevins said we need to say that we don't want any more deaths, and we are interested in basic human rights, which include the right to mobility and the reunification of families.

Later when I went to the Samaritans table and saw all the items they had picked up from the desert, dropped by passing migrants, I started to cry. The woman standing next to me said, "Seeing this kind of gets to you, doesn't it?" I thought of Myla walking the wash and picking up what she found there and taking it to the Church of the Old Mermaids. I thought of her walking the desert near la frontera and finding Lily, left there as though she was trash. Myla said, "Lily held out her arms to me, and I embraced her. From that second on, I knew I would lay down my life for her; it was as though I had given birth to her—or she to me." I wish everyone of those people who walked the desert had had someone like Myla. I wish they didn't have to walk the desert. I wish they could walk into this country with dignity and return to their own countries when they wished with dignity—or make this country their own.

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The stories about the people who have crossed were very powerful. Mark Adams talked about the man who said how painful it was to leave his land. Joseph Nevins talked about the 13 year old boy who dragged his mother's body across the desert for days after she died from heat exhaustion. He talked about Olivia Luna who was only 11 years old when she was found on Tohono O'odham land. A trip to the hospital did not save her life. They found Olivia Luna in the desert dying, he said, wearing pink sneakers. I gasped (yes, really, outloud) when he said this and looked at Mario; he looked stunned, too.

I started my new Old Mermaids book this week. In the first scene, Lily and Myla are walking the wash together looking for things to take to the Church of the Old Mermaids. They aren't finding anything until:

A desert cottontail scurried across the wash in front of them, slipping on the loose dirt and looking completely panicked before it jumped up out of the arroyo. Lily clapped. Myla noticed something in the sand near where the rabbit had made its getaway. She and Lily walked over to it.

A tiny bit of pink stuck up out of the sand. Myla bent down. The rabbit’s scrambling must have exposed it. Lily crouched next to her. Myla began pushing away the dirt with her cotton-gloved fingers. It was the heel end of a pink shoe.


All week I've been saying to Mario, "I know I'm going to find a pink shoe somewhere."

And there it was, on the foot of Olivia Luna Noguera.

That's the way writing these books and stories has worked. There was some reason Myla found that pink shoe in the wash. I don't know what it means. Recently I had started to lose faith in what I was doing. How could me telling stories, particularly stories of the Old Mermaids, be accomplishing anything, even though they meant so much to me? As I thought about Olivia and all her companion walkers, I realized again that the Old Mermaids had walked up onto these shores, this New Desert, without shoes, without anything, because their home had dried up (literally). They were migrants; we are all migrants, every day, trying to find our way in this land and in our lives. Church of the Old Mermaids was always about migrants coming together to create community.

I want to tell the stories of people like precious Olivia Luna. I want to tell the story of every item I see on that table, just as Myla told stories of what she found in the wash. I want to find the truth in those stories. And I'm hoping telling these tales will in some way contribute, in some way document what is happening—maybe even transform it on some level. Who knows?

I wish I had been out in that desert to hold my arms out to Olivia Luna. I would have wiped her tears and tied the shoelaces of her pink tennis shoes. I would have protected her, no matter what.

At least I'd like to think so.

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Friday, January 12, 2007

Borderlands 

It was an eerie day at the Old Mermaid Sanctuary today. Cacti, mesquite, and palo verde trees shaking in the wind, dark clouds casting huge shadows over the Rincon Mountains. The air was so clear I could see the dark green woods on the mountains.

I made a lot of phone calls today and did a lot of research. On days like these, my journalism training comes in handy. Trackin' down a source, searching out a clue, bugging people until they comply. Although really, people are usually more than happy to talk with me. I haven't been able to get an INS investigator to return my calls yet, but I'm not giving up.

Tomorrow we're going to the Border Issues Fair in a town about an hour from here. I hope to meet some people and get more information. Even though I've been studying this issue (borderlands, immigration, etc.) for years, I still feel sometimes as though I'm stumbling around in the dark. Both Church of the Old Mermaids and the new Old Mermaids book deal with these issues, so I want to get them right. Next week I've got an appointment to talk with the Humane Borders people. The following week I'm talking with a lawyer who helps migrants who are trying to get legal status. I'm also hoping to go to the repatriation tent in Nogales, Sonora, that the No More Deaths volunteers run to help migrants who've been deported and dumped on the border. I'm also trying to find out how I can go to immigration court. No luck so far. They don't really make those kinds of things easily known. Plus I have a jaguar conference to attend again, and my sister is running a marathon on Sunday, so I'm going up to support her. And I'm trying to write many thousands of words a day. A lot of things going on!

All this means is that I might not post for a bit, although I am taking my camera tomorrow, so who knows?

May You Spin in Beauty!

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Monday, January 30, 2006

Borderlands 

I've been exploring a variety of borderlands during the last six weeks. I've taken a some photos of these places, so I've made some slideshows for you to look at. The first one is of Agua Prieta, Mexico, where we went for lunch while on a break from the jaguar conference in Douglas. The town was rundown and nearly deserted—we hardly saw any women. When I asked someone about this later, she suggested that the women were probably at the Maquiladoras, factories mostly near the borders, mostly owned by U.S. companies, all paying extremely low wages. I think I mentioned this before, but it was rather creepy walking around this town with hardly any women there. And the men seemed hostile—or at least suspicious of us. Several Wal-Mart carts hung out near the entrance to Mexico. For us, these photos of the empty Wal-Mart carts seemed to sum up the devastation NAFTA and CAFTA have brought. The last photo is a kind of mosaic of a woman, and it was in the borderland (along with other figures) just as we left Mexico.

We also went to places near Arivaca, Arizona which is near the border. It's a beautiful and potentially dangerous place. I talked about this in a previous post, and you can go here for more photos. We were there near dusk. I took photos of the wash where animals and people have left their footprints. Washes, rivers, borders, edges, twilight, dawn are all thresholds, all places where things change, move, where the potential for transformation is not only possible but probable.

And (nearly) last but not least is that particular borderland commonly called kitsch. I'll just put a few of those photos right here. By the way, I was not trying to take a photo of myself in the mirror, but it kind of works in that kitschy way I have of taking photos of myself.

This is a Best Western hotel and restaurant.
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This was near Arivaca.
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As we headed north in California, the rain came. One black cloud was huge, bigger than any cloud I've ever seen. At one point it was above us and feathery black fingers seemed to reach down to us. We both wanted to stop, let the storm fall down on us. We moved away from that cloud, but others crowded the east horizon.

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Sunday, January 29, 2006

The Old Sea 

We’ve left Tucson and are now in a hotel in Valencia, California, just outside of Los Angeles. Close enough to the ocean to hear it. Almost. Mario is reading the paper right now. I’ve got the television on for the first time in six weeks. The Weather Channel. Interesting how I can step so easily out of one world and into another. Yes, it does feel like a different world. For six weeks I have not been inundated with advertising and news. I have not received the ever present message “be afraid, be very afraid,” for six weeks.

I finished the first draft of Church of the Old Mermaids. Did I say? I wrote about thirty pages on Friday, January 19, and I figured I’d finish it the following day. But after dinner, I felt antsy, so I sat down at the desk in the casita while Mario did the dishes and wrote the last scenes. It was only about ten more pages.

I could hardly believe it. I had written nearly 80,000 words in three weeks (almost 300 pages). Fictional words. A novel. A story that dropped out of the clear blue sky or from the fingers of the old mesquite. Maybe it came to me from the empty wash. Of course, the wash is not really empty. It’s filled with sand. Fairy sand, maybe. It got all over my shoes. My soles. Filled up my soul with fairy dust. Old Mermaid dust.

After I finished writing the book, I spent the rest of the week thanking the Universe for this story and this place where I came to remember it.

On Thursday, something seemed different in the wash and all around the house. Not different. That's not quite right. Hmmm. Maybe I was different. Something shifted. As if I could finally hear. Or see. I followed my instincts. Like following a child, a young girl, who still understands the trees, wind, rocks, birds. I followed coyote tracks and found seven sea shells in the dirt. Sea shells in the desert. I walked into the wash and saw a hummingbird at the top of a mesquite. I guess the hummingbirds in Arizona can sit still. Then it let go of the tree and flew right down toward me, all ruby-colored, shimmery, shiny, like Dorothy’s shoes. Sometime later, I followed a road runner. After it disappeared beyond the horse corral, I looked down at its “x” marks the spot prints in the sand. Such mystery and truth in those lines.

Mario and I took our chairs and sat near where I had found the sea shells. We listened to the sun go down. I could not sit still for long. The wash was calling to me. Or something was. I walked down the left part of the Y, near the barn. Softly. Quietly. I stood at the crossroads of the Y, then walked back toward the house.

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I went up near the house, out of the wash, and stood at the skeleton of the sweat lodge. I looked down at the stones in the middle. Thought about going inside but didn't. I stared at a splotch of bird shit that looked like a pictograph of a person, arms outstretched.

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I wondered if I should stay out here all night to get a vision. Then I turned and walked a few steps, toward a picnic table. The setting sun light, golden, fell beneath the palo verde and mesquite that grew side by side near the front of the house, fell like a kind of twilight spotlight, or a wave of sweet light—that kind of light where you’re certain anything can happen. As I gazed at the place beneath the tree, something turned to me and opened her eyes. The sun had set in her eyes, golden red-like, split in two. She blinked and came into form. At first I thought she was a coyote. Yet her gaze was different. More fey. More direct. And her ears had tufts. Her face was rounder. I couldn’t place what I was looking at. I put my hands together at my heart. “Oh,” I said. And something else. Maybe, “stay”? I can’t remember. She stood, sleepy, and I saw her whole body. I knew the form now. Saw her short tail. Bobcat. She was smaller than what I would have imagined. She walked away slowly, down into the wash and across, back up into the desert. She looked back at me once. Then she was gone.

I looked for her. Looked for her prints in the old mermaid dust. It was enough I had seen her. Enough that she sat under the trees, next to the bench, close to the house. Enough that I asked for a vision, and she let me see her.

I went back to Mario. This trip has been filled with felines. The jaguar conference. My interviews with a conservationist and then a biologist about jaguars. Tigers, mountain lions, and jaguars had visited my dreams. Was it any wonder a bobcat appeared in waking life?

Later we had dinner and conversation with our new friends, after the owl called out.

On Friday, a week from when I finished the book, I took the items I had found in the wash, the ones I’d put in the book, and I assembled an Old Mermaid out of them. I called Mario over to help with the tail. We used palm fronds and prickly pear. We both got pricked several times.

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When she appeared to be finished, I thanked the spirits and beings of the place, I thanked the Old Mermaids, I thanked everything and everyone, and offered the art piece as a gift. I poured out water in the four directions.

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So much feels healed from this trip. I feel different. I don’t think I feel like the Furious Spinner any more, at least not in the same way. I'm not so angry. I feel more like an Old Mermaid, learning to swim in the ocean of my being, in the old sea that is this world. I am a novice in the Church of the Old Mermaids. I found solace and peace at the Old Mermaids Sanctuary for thirty-eight days. I want to carry that solace and peace with me. The Old Mermaids solve problems differently than I do. I want to learn from them. And that bobcat. She was invisible until she opened her eyes. She was invisible until she turned and looked at me. But she wasn’t, was she? When I saw her, she saw me. I saw the wild looking at me. It sounds like a song doesn’t it? One I could sing for the rest of my life.

Today, as we left the place where we stayed, a coyote walked by our car. Just like last year: at the last minute, Coyote said hello and goodbye. We thanked him and went on our way.

The journey continues.

kim

May You Swim in Beauty!

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Thursday, January 26, 2006

Fork in the Road 

We're leaving in a couple of days. Both feeling sad. We could do this the rest of our lives. Who couldn't? Virginia Woolf was right. A little money and room of one's own really does facilitate creativity. (If you haven't read it, "A Room of One's Own" is very inspiring. It is especially good read aloud.) This has been an absolutely lovely month. (Despite a skin condition that kept me up many nights and left me itchy and jumpy during the day.) I had Mario, this place, and my novel. Ahhh, bliss. We were quite compatible with our housemates as we went about our lives, separate, yet together under an umbrella of creativity.

I wrote and sold an essay, "Healing the Wounded Wild," the first week I was here. The next three weeks I worked on a novel, Church of the Old Mermaids. I finished the first draft last Friday. During that time, I also went to the jaguar conference, and I talked to conservationists, a biologist, ranchers, Mexicans, migrants, and others about border issues and jaguars (as separate issues and related issues).

By the way, I took some photos of the border wall and of an area in the Sonoran Desert (in Arizona) where many migrants have crossed and some have died. It is also a beautiful place. Huge old cottonwoods line the empty river. Last year when I was at this particular trail, a man with a gun came up to me and said, "Have you seen any illegals?" I guess he hadn't read the sign at the entrance to the trail: no guns. We said, "How would we know?" He said, "I just rustled up about six of them." This day, the day I took the photos, we saw no other humans beside ourselves, but I found a great deal of evidence that others had passed this way. (At another time I'll try to post some of the photos of the cottonwoods. They are superb.)

La frontera—the border—is a complex place. Myla Alvarez, the hera of my novel, said of the border, "Thresholds. That was what it was. La frontera was a threshold. Like the wash. A betwixt and between place. Magic existed. Even though the magic was sometimes cruel and arbitrary."

Many of the things I believed when I first came here twenty years ago, I no longer believe. My kneejerk reaction that some people were bigots just because they were concerned about the traffic across the border was wrong. No one I've spoken with has expressed hatred for the migrants. In fact, everyone I've talked with has expressed sympathy or understanding for why they are trying to get here. Nearly everyone I spoke with expressed a frustration with the American and Mexican governments. The problems seem to get worse every time a politician decides to "fix it." Short-term fixes aren't working. But I'll talk more about this later.

For now, here are some photos. (I forgot how to do a slideshow, and I haven't been able to figure it out this night.)

Borders: Scars in the Earth
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Handless shopper?
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This is the Mexican side of the border. Do you see the Burger King sign on the other side. Sign of the promised land?
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This fence is about ten years old, I believe. Neighbors on both sides of the border used to talk to each other over the fence, just like neighbors. No more.
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Hundreds of migrants have died crossing the border in the last few years. They die of heat exhaustion, drowning, exposure, and other causes.
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Growing out of the wash (Arizona side)
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I thought this was a snake skin at first, but it's a sock, probably left by a migrant.
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A path from the south. Probably the sight of these riparian trees in the distance seems like an oasis. How discouraging it must be to arrive at the river and find it dry.
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