In times of old, The Furies protected Mother Right. If a mother (or any woman) was harmed, The Furies swooped down and took their vengeance. They were one of the last vestiges of a world that existed before the patriarchy. When we feel righteous anger, it is The Furies who are calling out to us to make what is wrong right again.

Monday, February 28, 2005

We've Got a Heartbeat! 

It seems the constitution may not be dead after all. Listen closely. I think it's got a heartbeat. Today a federal judge ordered the Bush administration to either charge Jose Padilla or let him go. He's been held without charge as an "enemy combatant" despite the fact that he's an American citizen for nearly three years. The judge said, "'The president has no power, neither express nor implied, neither constitutional nor statutory, to hold (Padilla) as an enemy combatant.'"

I don't know if Padilla was planning some terrible crime against this nation or not. Neither does the government. That's the point. He should be allowed due process. If they can put him away for years without even allowing him to see a lawyer for most of that time, they could put any of us away, just by saying they "believe" we could be a danger. If they've got evidence against him, they need to charge him. If they don't, they need to let him go. That's the way our system is supposed to work.

Next move is the government's. They've got 45 days to comply. 0 comments

Sunday, February 27, 2005

I Get It...Kind of 

Fascinating piece: “Poor, White, and Pissed” by Joe Bageant. I never understood how someone could consider me an "elite liberal" since I have very little money, crappy health, and not the greatest prospects. I thought I had something in common with the working poor—I assumed we wanted the same things: good health; safe environment; decent jobs; happy healthy family. Instead I'd hear through the MSM and other grapevines that I was one of the liberal elite, while multi-millionaire Dubya was just one of the guys. Bageant's essay makes some of these "accusations" a little clearer, a little more understandable, even if I don't agree that all liberals are this or all liberals are that, any more than all poor Southerners are this or all poor Southerners are that.

Some of Bageant's generalizations make me cringe. He says, for instance, "One of the problems we working class Southerners have is that educated progressive Americans see us as a bunch of obese, heavily armed nose pickers. This problem is compounded by the fact that so many of us are pretty much that." However, the fact that I cringe is probably a sign that I am one of the elite.

He asks where the left is: "The political left once supported these workers, stood on the lines taking its beatings at the plant gates alongside them. Now, comfortably ensconced in the middle class, the American left sees the same working whites as warmongering bigots, happy pawns of the empire....The left should take its cues from Malcolm X, who understood the need to educate and inform the entire African-American society before tackling the goal of unity. Same goes for white crackers."

So what does he think the left should do? Forget about the Democratic party, for one thing. He writes, "Quit voting for that pack of undead hacks called the Democratic Party and ORGANIZE! Howard Dean is just another millionaire Yale frat boy. ORGANIZE! Quit kidding yourself that the Empire will protect professionals and semi-professionals such as you and ORGANIZE! Spend time on a Pentecostal church pew or in a blue-collar beer joint and ORGANIZE! Join the Elks Club and ORGANIZE!”

I think there's a lot of truth in his essay. However, I don't want to spend time in a church pew or in a beer joint, and I certainly ain't gonna join the Elks. I'm not interested. What can I say?

See what you think. For me, the essay was an enlightening view of the “poor, white, and pissed.” 1 comments

Friday, February 25, 2005

Notes of a Natural Woman: Shape 

Linda isn't certain how much longer she'll be able to walk, so she's looking for someone to help her on the farm. Looking for a mechanical way to get around. Today she sat outside in the sun. I talk with her on the phone for a while. We start arguing about something. Which side of the Cascades Klickitat County is on. (Who cares?) In the middle of the discussion, I think, what am I doing? I don’t know how to extricate myself from the argument without her noticing. She wouldn't want me to treat her any differently than I did before she was so sick. But I can tell I am exhausting her. Why can’t I learn to keep my mouth shut?

Mario and I had a whole day planned. Writing, movie, walking, work. But I don't feel good. Been feeling sick off and on for days. So we drive out toward Falling Creek. Feeling the need to ground. To kiss the Earth. Feel the rough skin of something wild beneath my hand. Past Carson, we see two cop cars, one at each end of the High Bridge over Wind River. One officer is walking across the bridge, near the railing, and looking down. Across the road from him, we see a pile of clothes: brown boots, green and white jacket, dark green watch cap. Had someone jumped? Man, that would be a long way down.

We keep driving. Into the Giff. Snow blocks the road to Falling Creek. Since I'm already nauseated, we decide walking up and down and up and down on the wet snow isn't a good idea. We turn around and drive south again, deciding to go to Panther Creek. Just before we pass a dirt road that’ll take us to Panther Creek—a way we seldom use—and I say, “Let’s go up here.” He turns the car left. Evergreens crowd the road. Just as the car straightens, and we start up the hill, a bald eagle flies right in front of our little blue Honda and lands in a tree at the side of the road. Mario stops the car, I grab the binoculars, even though I don't need them. The eagle is plenty close, and it is gorgeous. Clean white feathered head and tail, milk chocolate-colored wings and body, hooked yellow nose and yellow feet and claws. Its beak is open slightly as it looks around.

"Can you tell the difference between males and females?" Mario asks as he looks through the binoculars.

"The females are bigger," I say. "This one looks small." For an eagle. "So maybe it's male."

We watch silently. The sky is bright blue, the road all blond dirt, the trees shiny with sun. It feels like summer. We breathe the same air, the three of us: eagle, man, and woman. I think of the dream I had years ago about a bald eagle, a dream I had been thinking about only hours earlier. In the dream I am outside my car, the blue Honda. Inside is an eagle—who is also a young woman. At one point, the bald eagle stands on top of the car seat, looking around. I am awed. She looks at me and bumps her head on the window to indicate she wants to be let out. I open the door and let her out. I ask her if she knows the way home, and she says yes, but she points in the wrong direction. She is wearing my clothes. When I remember the dream later, I am certain the eagle woman is a healthier better me.

We watch this eagle. Her feathers look so soft. Perfect. Healthy. After a while she flies away. Mario and I look at each other and grin.

"I'm glad our day didn't work out the way we planned," I say. "This was worth is."

We drive up the dirt road until we get to the Panther Creek campground. We park and get out. It's colder here than at home, but there's no snow. The road is wet. The trees and hills block out the sun, and it feels like winter again. We start walking down the Pacific Crest trail. I do a little dance, then let my water bottle drop to the earth, and run down the trail. Fast as I can. I can't remember running through the forest since I was a girl. I run and run. It feels fine. Then I stop and turn around, walk back to Mario. He's smiling and swinging my water bottle at his side.

“Good thing there weren’t any panthers around,” I say. “I forgot running triggers their predatory instinct.” Or something. I imagine the mountain lion munching on my head. The run was almost worth it. Wish I could do it here every day.

The trail dips, and I stand in the place where Linda, another friend, and I stood two and a half years earlier just after we found out Linda's cancer had come back. We danced in the sweet autumn light coming down through the trees and howled and asked for healing. When we stopped, we heard coyotes in the distance, singing along with us.

Mario and I head toward Panther Creek. The last time I was in these woods with Linda we had a fight. That was the last time we had walked in the woods together. It may have been the last time we ever walked in the woods together. After so many years and so many walks. Shit. And it ended with a fight. Why did I have to argue? Why didn’t I keep my mouth shut and nod, whether I agreed with her or not. I thought if I didn't speak up always then I was letting "evil prevail." That rule didn’t really apply with Linda. She was never evil. So I should keep my mouth shut and just let things go...

The water in the creek is low. It should be flooded with snowmelt. Or near flood stage with all the sunshine we've been having. Mario and I cross the bridge and go up the switchback trail. Up and up. Doesn't feel like winter. We talk about story ideas. The other day someone asked me to follow her car. I wasn’t sure what her car looked like, so I followed the first car that stopped by my car. For a few minutes, I was afraid I had followed the wrong car. After all, I had never seen her face. I assumed it was her because she had stopped and waited for me.

"So I thought that would be a great beginning to a story," I tell Mario. "Only I don't know where I'd go from there."

"But you'd know right away if you were following the wrong person."

"No," I said. "I mean I didn't know where I was going the other day, so I just kept following this car. Luckily I was following the right person. But imagine if you were following a friend to a new house. Or a real estate agent to some property in the country she was showing you. You wouldn’t know if you were following the wrong car for a long time.”

"OK. I can see that."

"So what would happen?" I ask. "If you followed someone out here, you could get in some deep trouble. You could stumble upon drug dealers, Nazis, militia members. And I'm not really interested in a story like that. What if someone followed a red truck into the woods. The truck stopped and a man got out. He bent down, shapechanged into a coyote, and ran into the woods."

Mario nods. We walk down the trail and across the bridge again.

"I don't know where I'd go from there," I say. "I want to write something that isn't fantasy. But I don't want it to be so mystical that it's muddled. I want it to be real. What if in real life you followed someone and they got out of the car and turned into a coyote? What would you do? Would you believe it?"

"I would believe it," he says. "I would want to investigate. I'd probably go over to the truck."

"You'd go over to the truck?" I say. "Wouldn't you be afraid?"

"I don't think so," he says. "Maybe a little concerned I had discovered something others might not want me to know. What about you? Would you believe it?"

"No," I say. "I'd think I was going crazy or something was in my eyes. I'd be driving away as fast as I could. Wouldn't want to see that. I should write a character like you. Someone who isn’t afraid."

We walk through the empty campground. Suddenly a coyote darts out in front of us. It runs away quickly. Mario and I laugh. We've never seen a coyote this close before—not in the Pacific Northwest. Today it seems the world is alive with wild things. May it always be.

Mario and I return to the car and drive away. Over High Bridge, we note that the pile of clothes is gone. We figure someone came and picked them up. No suicide. Just high spirits. Maybe even a prank. I lean my head against Mario’s shoulder and yawn as we head home.

“Thanks for the walk in the woods,” I say.

“You’re welcome.”

Some days it takes a while to see the shape of things. Things are always changing. 0 comments

Dragon Storm 

Ain't this photo of Saturn beautiful? 0 comments

Thursday, February 24, 2005

Howl 

Have you seen the moon? Doesn't seem like a winter moon: pinched and cold. No, it seems like a fall moon, or even a summer moon. Succulent. Last night we went walking beneath its fortified milky light. I said I wasn't going home until I heard the coyotes howl. We walked the loop. Down from our house, past the school, down toward the river, passing by the courthouse, the bar, a bank, Bloomsbury, a closed antique store with its windows covered in brown paper announcing: coming soon. We walked in the middle of the street part of the time, in awe at the sky. What is that color? Violet? I felt as though I could reach up to the night sky and pluck a star from it and press it against my forehead.

We went down to the river and looked at the moonlight on the water, broken into pieces of light that rode the fractured waves like tiny illuminated surf boards. We kept walking until we were in town again. Past the restaurant whose name has changed so many time that I can't keep track. We crossed the road, went down into the darkness again as we headed for the fairgrounds and Rock Creek. I listened for coyotes. Watched for coyotes. Cars drove by. Someone had their radio up. Hip-hop. I glanced over. Red car, shiny wheels. Could have been Coyote. Didn't hear any howling.

We went onto the fairgrounds and to the bridge across Rock creek. Standing on the bridge we could see the rocks at the bottom of the creek, covered in cinnamon-colored dirt. Two lights shined up at us from the water, as if the light sources were coming from the bottom of the river. One light was yellow, the other white. Which was the moon? We kept walking, over the bridge, past the empty fair buildings. We tried to avoid walking on the goose shit that was everywhere. We danced under street lights that multiplied our shadows.

I listened for coyotes and heard a diesel pick-up truck, parked in the dark, near the lake. A secret rendezvous? I wanted to walk by the truck and scare the interlopers. Mario wasn't keen on the idea. "I'm not going home until I hear a coyote howl." Mario opened his mouth and howled. I laughed.

"Good enough," I said, and I took my coyote home.

May You Howl in Beauty! 0 comments

A Plant By Any Other Name 

So I haven't written about Gannongate: a mouth-piece for the right getting into the White House and posing as a reporter. For one thing, in the two minutes I've turned on the MSM, they were actually covering the story, so I figured most people knew about it. Congress is even calling for an investigation. It seems to me this faux-reporter is a right-wing plant, despite denials. It appears he had unfettered access. (What happened to security by the way? I don't like the Emperor or his people, but I don't want any of them harmed. What if this guy had been an assassin?) For another thing, why is everyone acting so surprised the White House let this guy in? They're capable of anything. I mean, THERE WERE NO WEAPONS OF MASS DESTRUCTION.

This is just a short list of the outrageous things this administration has done: The Emperor With No Clothes and his administration lied (or were really ignorant) about WMD! The United States has invaded two countries since the Emperor took power. They are trying to destroy Social Security. They pay journalists to spin their programs. They are trying to dismantle nearly every environmental law on the books. The Attorney General apparently believes torture is acceptable. So why are people surprised they allowed a right wing faux-reporter into their midst? It's laughable they allowed it. It's outrageous. It's stupid. But it's not a surprise.

Nothing they do any more surprises me. I was trying to figure out how to write a satire about this time in our history. I don't think it's possible: because the truth is already so bizarre and unbelievable. I wouldn't have believed that Americans would have tolerated the assault on their freedoms (and economy and environment and sons and daughters) for so long. Yet here we are. In fact, more than a third of college students surveyed thought the government should have to approve newspaper stories before they were printed! No wonder our country is in deep trouble.

Still, I believe the screw has turned. (But I thought Bush would lose the election, so what do I know?) I can hear the cracks in the dam forming. (Yes, I’m mixing metaphors. Sue me.) It won't be too long before it'll burst. It won't be a big thing. (Because we've already done HUGE bad things: the war in Iraq, the torture of prisoners, Gonzales, Ashcroft, the Patriot Act.) It'll be something we laugh at at first. Then it'll become that added pressure to bring down the dam dam that is the Emperor With No Clothes and all his rapturous buddies.

And I'll be there with my dancing slippers on. 0 comments

Wednesday, February 23, 2005

Life in Cascadia 

I've been driving to Vancouver several days a week. The sky has been pale blue, the mountains rugged white triangles growing out of the horizon. Well, maybe not exactly triangles. Loo Wit has had the top of her triangle sliced off. It's difficult to imagine the mountains only have 30% of the snow they usually have at this time. Unless they get more snow soon, we'll be in a drought. That means water rationing and a vicious fire season. I don't look forward to either of those.

However, for now, the days have been sunny. Yesterday as I drove home from a day spent driving from library branch to library branch, the moon hung from the afternoon sky like a communion wafer. This is my body.... Or an unblinking glaucous eye, just to the left of a gleaming Mount St. Helens.

Earlier in the day, I went to the refuge in Ridgefield for lunch. I ate my tofu sandwich, then walked down to the wetlands. The swans oooh-oohed in the lake. Overhead a red-tailed hawk flew. I walked to the giant old oak tree and spent some time talking with it, my hand pressed against its rough black bark. Then I drove to the other side of the refuge and saw probably 500 swans or more, several red-tailed hawks, a merlin, ducks galore, many coots, several great blue herons, and two egrets. I often think of anorexics when I look at the great blue herons—they are the ascetics of the bird world, aren’t they? (Wasn't it Barry Lopez who called them river monks?) The egrets have them beat, I think. The gorgeous white birds are so thin I was certain a breeze would knock them over—or at least cause them to take flight.

As I was leaving, some kind of small raptor (merlin or kite) dove straight into the ground. He was up in the sky flapping his wings one second, then the dive and BOOM! he went, into the earth! (OK, there was no boom.) Why had he done that? Was his prey so slow and stupid that it had remained still while he aimed himself at it like a giant mosquito? Or was he trying to impress the ladies? I was impressed. If I were a female raptor, I'd have his babies. Yep.

No cranes today. They must have already migrated.

Tonight is full moon. We're getting ready to take a walk. To make a wish. Two of our close friends are suffering so much. Chemo. Sometimes you just have to breathe and hope for...the next breath?

One step at a time. One breath at a time.

I love you, I love you, I love you.

I remember once saying to a Buddhist therapist that I wished I could take away people's pain. And she said, "What right do you have to do that? It's their pain." Interesting question. Still, if they asked and I had the ability, I'd do it in a snap. Hell, I'd take away my own suffering. Who wouldn't?

OM TARA TUTARE TURE SOHA.

If you want to see some amazing time-lapse movies of plants (remember those from elementary school movies?), go here. Click on Morning Glory twining (to the left on their screen). It's so amazing. Here are some cool photos of Saturn. Don't forget to check the Loo Wit link on the right. She's been rumbling lately. (Thanks for the links, Mar.) And one last photo from Ma Nature. Here's Kilauea Volcano in Hawaii. That link is from my bud in Hawaii, Kevin.

All right, darlin's. Off to go get communion—from the Moon. I owe lots of letters to friends and readers, I know. Once work settles down, I'll be back to writing. Gotta make a living.

May You Commune with Beauty! 0 comments

Saturday, February 19, 2005

White Noise and Pink Dusk 

The sky was pink only a moment ago. A nanosecond ago. Dark and pink. Almost night. Someone has thrown a switch—or maybe they just slurped the pink out. Now it is lighter outside. Almost daylight. I can see patches of snow across the river, clefts of snow, like a row of sweet white vaginas.

What can I say? I've been thinking of genitalia. In Detroit, a muralist has been sentenced to jail for a painting on his outside wall that depicts Eve with her bosom bared. This article from the Detroit Free Press says that he was given permission to do the mural but he couldn't put words or genitalia on it. Last I heard breasts were not genitalia. The word he put on the mural, by the way, was "love." What is it about this country and breasts? Ashcroft covers them up. Janet Jackson gets in trouble for accidentally exposing hers. This country's Puritan roots are showing.

We found out today that the school across the street from us is going to continue to bring in a truck and broadcast spray pesticides. Instead of looking over the research we had given them from reputable scientists, they decided to go to our local extension agent (who is also a licensed pesticide applicator) to ask his opinion. As far as I can tell, this agent has never seen a pesticide he doesn't like. He invoked a scientist who works for a Washington university that some of us believe is too tied to the chemical industry. This "scientist" uses science from the fifties and sixties. At the meeting about pesticide use, the school reps said they had to keep the grounds looking good or the parents would think they were mistreating their children and they worried the children would trip over weeds and break their ankles. I asked, in a letter I wrote today, why it was more acceptable for a child to be sent to the hospital from pesticide exposure (which happened this summer) than to trip over a weed (like that's the reason a child falls). It is all very discouraging. We've been looking for another place to move to for five years. Affordable housing is scare here. We've even thought of leaving the area. It's funny because when we look at those "best places to live" lists for people "like us," this area is supposed to be it! That just tells us it could be much worse.

Ah well. Mario is doing the dishes. I'm eating roasted parsnips while I write to you all. The roaring in my ear is so loud it almost drowns out the white noise from the hepa fan. It's like I'm constantly listening to a really loud seashell. My allergies etc. have all flared mercilessly. Have you had roasted parsnips? My bro-in-law in Scottsdale served them when we visited, and I've been making them ever since. In case you don't know what parsnips look like (I only learned about 10 years ago), they're kind of like white carrots. They taste like a cross between carrots and potatoes. Parsnips are part of the carrot (parsley) family and were "reserved for the aristocracy, who liked them drowned in honey or combined with fruit in little cakes," according to the Whole Foods Companion: A Guide for Adventurous Cooks, Curious Shoppers, and Lovers of Natural Foods by Dianne Onstad. I love this book by the way. (Be careful when you read it though, if you're anything like me. After I read what she said about peanuts I haven't had one since.) There's a 2005 edition that I haven't seen yet; ours is from 1996. She says some believed parsnips could cure snakebites, while others thought they caused insanity. (That is one quibble I have with the book. I wish she would be more specific instead of saying "some" people. I want to know which people and when.)

If you want to try roasted parsnips, grab up a couple from the grocery store. Preheat oven to 350°. Wash the parsnips. Peel them if you want. I leave the skins on. Cut off both ends. Then cut them into bite-size pieces, any shape you want—or cut them so they look like French fries. Put them in a pan so that they're not one on top of the other. Spread them out and dribble olive oil on them. Put your hands into all and roll the pieces around until they're covered in the oil. (Don't use too much oil. You only need a little. Use less than you think you'll need.) Put them in the oven for 30 to 40 minutes, depending how you like them. Stick a fork in them to tell if they're done, or pop one in your mouth. They're done the way potatoes are done.

I've been doing library work all week, so my brain is filled with library stuff. But it's been a good writing week, too. I sold "The Señorita and the Cactus Thorn." It'll appear in the young adult anthology Coyote Road next year. It's the story I wrote at the casita, inspired by my irritation at getting poked and pricked by cacti. (A variation of "Princess and the Pea"). My editor at Simon and Schuster asked for me to give a physical description of Mercy for the cover artist of Mercy, Unbound. That was nice of her. As I've explained before, writers have no control (and very little say) over their covers, so we just have to cross our fingers. It worked out with Coyote Cowgirl, so I'm hoping for the best with this new book. I have a lot of faith in my editor at S&S. She gets my writing, she's excited by it, she's in contact with me. That is a really nice combination. I'm happy with the agent I'm working with, too. How often do you hear that from a writer? A writer happy with her editor and agent. Wow. I've got to stop and digest that little kernel.

OK.

Last night I dreamed of coyotes. They were howling, a pack of them, and I was trying to get to them. Today while I spoke with my father on the phone over thirty deer came onto his front yard. In his life, he said, he had never seen that happen before. And except for his time in the service, my father has lived on the same road his entire life. My youngest sister, who lives next door, was out walking with her husband across the road in the two lanes. (We call it "the two lanes" because there were two dirt lanes. One lane went to the river and to the left where several summer cottages were; the other lane went to the river and to the right where the ranger's house was for many years until it burned down. I spent many hours of my childhood in those woods. Now no one can drive on the lanes so they're more like paths, and some government agency owns the property on both sides of the lanes.) Anyway, my sister and husband were walking and she said she saw something through the trees, something brown, like a brown wave, and she thought it was a truck or something. But it was the deer. Her dog went to investigate and came back quickly, apparently cowed by the herd.

I wish I had seen it. Today as I walked to meet Mario on his way home for lunch, I spotted several robins in various green islands amidst the concrete. As we turned to home I looked up into the huge old oak tree. Roosting on the bare limbs were a couple dozen robins looking down at us.

It feels as though the world is shuddering here and there. Shivering. Getting ready to fling something off—or start something. I feel the same way.

...as if Kali just yawned. And she's not falling to sleep. No. It's a morning yawn. It's an awakening yawn. She's just about to open her eyes...

I'll be sure to offer her a parsnip or two. 0 comments

Thursday, February 17, 2005

"I rise..." 

This speech by Canadian Prime Minister Paul Martin in support of gay marriage brought tears to my eyes. I would love to hear a speech like this by an American politician—a powerful American politician. He said, "I rise today in support of Bill C-38, the Civil Marriage Act. I rise in support of a Canada in which liberties are safeguarded, rights are protected and the people of this land are treated as equals under the law....We embrace freedom and equality in theory, Mr. Speaker. We must also embrace them in fact."

The speech is long but worth reading. He gives good talking points to use when discussing this issue with people who may believe gay marriage is wrong.

He concludes by saying, "There are few nations whose citizens cannot look to Canada and see their own reflection. For generations, men and women and families from the four corners of the globe have made the decision to choose Canada to be their home. Many have come here seeking freedom —of thought, religion and belief. Seeking the freedom simply to be.

"The people of Canada have worked hard to build a country that opens its doors to include all, regardless of their differences; a country that respects all, regardless of their differences; a country that demands equality for all, regardless of their differences. If we do not step forward, then we step back. If we do not protect a right, then we deny it. Mr. Speaker, together as a nation, together as Canadians: Let us step forward."

Blessed be! 0 comments

Measured Response to Ward Churchill 

Michael Faughnan, whose brother was killed on 9/11, has written a measured and moving response to Ward Churchill. He doesn't ask for his head; he doesn't ask him to shut-up; he doesn't ask for him to be fired. He writes, "Shame on the University of Colorado, certain political leaders and others who attack you (Churchill) personally, while side-stepping a deeper understanding of the views that you appear to be raising. We would like you to use your right to speak and your privileged position to be clear on our brother's death so that we can better understand your message. Are you capable of rejecting the language of hate and engaging in real constructive dialog to explore realistic solutions to our real world problems, without pitting one group of victims against another?"

Faughnan reminds us that symbols did not die on 9/11, just as symbols never die during a war. We can be angry about injustices—we can be furious. But is violence ever justified? I think violence is justified in true self-defense. Beyond that, killing others to bring about peace doesn't make sense. I admire Mr. Faughnan for being so articulate and reasonable despite his terrible loss. 0 comments

Tuesday, February 15, 2005

Matriotism 

"Matriotism" is by Kjersten Hallin deGaia from We'Moon '05



© 2003 Kjersten Hallin deGaia 1 comments

Monday, February 14, 2005

Faces of the Fallen 

I've been looking at the faces of the soldiers who have been killed in Iraq. It is heartbreaking, yet I feel like I should be a witness to their deaths—or that every American should be a witness, since our tax dollars are paying for them to be there. Many of them have died in accidents, not from hostile fire. Isn't there something they can do to prevent that? Get better vehicles? Train drivers better? It must be horrible for everyone involved. I hope they all come home soon. (I've put a link to Faces of the Fallen and Baghdad Burning: the Girl Blog from Iraq on the right side of the blog.) 0 comments

Great Quote 

"Our lives begin to end the day we become silent about things that matter." —Martin Luther King, Jr. 0 comments

Pilgrim Soul 

Haven't felt like writing, so I pulled a fragment from a piece I wrote several years ago about another trip to the desert.

Peregrine Soul and the Search for the Grail

Ahhh, our pilgrim souls! That part of ourselves which is the most flexible, the most holy. To be a pilgrim means to purposefully become a stranger, a foreigner, to embrace the beginner’s mind and let everything be new. A pilgrim travels away from home, often looking for the sacred.

I feel as though I am a stranger, an alien, wherever I live. I am a pilgrim looking for home. I long for a place where I can dig in my toes, breathe deeply, and feel embraced by all that is. I have felt at home for short periods of time, then a disruption comes, a feeling of chaos permeates, and I am a wanderer—a peregrine—again.

I have gone on pilgrimages all of my life. Sometimes these journeys went as far as my back yard. Or to the grocery store. Even over the ocean to Europe. To the mountains in the West. As far as my back yard again. For me, each trip is a search for the present, the world, and my self. If you have a pilgrim soul, too, you must be prepared to ask questions others may not ask—or may not want you to ask.

When Percival found the Grail and was faced with the wounded king, he failed to ask, “What ails you? And whom does the Grail serve?” He was in an alien place. Was he too timid to ask? Didn’t he care about the king or the Grail? Was he afraid to step out of his place? Perhaps you need to ask, “What ails me?” Often we need to step away from the familiar—step onto the path of pilgrimage—to be able to answer just such a question.

Joseph Campbell wrote that the prevailing myth of the western world is King Arthur and the Search for the Holy Grail. It is a myth frequently associated with Christ and sacrifice. In our culture, we often equate goodness with sacrifice and suffering. The more we suffer the better people we are. And it is just a myth: suffering plus sacrifice does not equal goodness.

Most scholars agree the story of the Grail originates before Christianity. According to Jean Markale, the King Arthur story was a pagan epic, a “Celtic quest for the submerged woman represented by the Grail.” The Grail itself was a transformation of the Celtic Cauldron of Regeneration where slain warriors were restored to life. The search for the Grail is, in essence, a search for restoration then, for re-creation. Since the Cauldron of Regeneration represented the womb of the Goddess—the womb of the Earth—restoration of life occurred when the dead went back to the womb, i.e. back into the Earth—to be born again. We go on pilgrimages for the same reason—to be restored to life.

We go on vacation for recreation. But what is recreation? Re-creation. To go back to creation. To be created again. The word create comes from 'ker': to be in motion. Thus, our re-creation requires motion again. The word restoration comes from 'sta': to stand. Re-storation requires us to stand again. Stillness and motion. To stand and to move. Silence and movement. Get up off the couch. Stand. Ask, what ails me? Then move. Stand again. Ask, what ails me? And move.

I have read and listened to many accounts of travelers and pilgrims. Some say suffering is required for a meaningful sojourn. Our culture is too fixated on suffering as a means to holiness. Percival found the Grail in the temple Montjoie, “Mount of Joy,” governed by the Queen, Repanse de Joie—Dispenser of Joy. We can find our selves, our Grail, and answer the question “What ails you?” with joy. Suffering happens, sacrifice happens, but it is not required for enlightenment. See if you can find what you need in joy. 0 comments

Sunday, February 13, 2005

Photo Album 

Despite major foot dragging by moiself, I have agreed to put up a couple of photos from our recent trip. I wanted to put up photos of the places; my beautiful husband thought a couple photographs of me would be good, too. So we're going to try this out. We haven't got the method down pat yet, so bear with us.

This first photograph is of the Quail House. I spoke of this often in my Arizona essays (under "The Trip). Mario usually went here during the morning after we walked the wash and worked until lunch. After Mario went home, I came here and wrote most days. Mario is in the first photo; I'm in the second one. A note about the hats: Mario and I forgot to bring hats to Arizona. But there in the casita were a couple of hats hanging out just waiting for us! We thank the real owners, wherever they may be.





We went up into the Santa Catalina a couple of times. This photo is on Mount Lemmon, after we ate some very sweet berry pie at Summerhaven. A few years earlier, Mario took a photograph of me at a similar sign for coyote crossings in Cave Creek, which later became the setting for Coyote Creek in The Gaia Websters.



Remember the mesquite tree where I went to tell my tales each evening? Well, you can't really see it in this photograph, but I'm sitting at the metal chair and table under the tree with my laptop. It was a very magical place, more so in the early morning and at dusk.



This photograph is one view of the wash that Mario and I walked each day and that I usually walked several times a day. This photograph was taken in the last minutes before I left, just before the coyote stepped out into view, and we said hello and good-bye. (I took a photo of the coyote, actually, but you can barely see her, so I didn't post that picture.)

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Saturday, February 12, 2005

Image 

It's raining out. Or is that the sound of Mario typing upstairs? Not sure. Although it is dark outside, I can see the clouds dropping into the gorge, blocking my view of the snow-covered cliffs across the river. I'm making dinner, doing the laundry, and writing this post. Quinoa and peas with sauteed vegetables. All organic, of course. Used to be I wouldn't let anyone ever see me cooking or doing laundry or anything domestic without me first explaining to them that Mario did most of the cooking and at least half of the chores. I was afraid someone would think I was a stereotypical wife. Isn't that funny?

I was a pioneer for women's rights, so I was going to shake everyone up. Sometimes I just confused people. My goddess-child thought Mario and I were brother and sister for a couple of years. Because we didn't have children and Mario cooked, she couldn't wrap her little mind around our coupledom. (Then there was the two-year-old girl who was very confused because milk didn't come from my breasts. Not that I told her this, mind you. Her mother did when the girl asked her. So when I came over to visit, she wanted me to discuss this disconcerting fact to her. How come I didn't have milk in my breasts. Because I didn't have a baby, I tried to explain. Why? Because...just because. See. I would have made a good parent after all.)

It's all about image. I didn't want my image to be "housewife," since I wasn't one. My name was different from Mario's, and for the first few years of our marriage, I would lecture anyone who called me Mrs. Milosevic—sales people, telephone operators. I wasn't attached to my husband and women in other countries don't necessarily take their husband's last name, I’d blather on. People also called me Mrs. Antieau which made me shudder. That was my grandmother's name. Many years into my marriage, I realized I could not change an entire culture. No matter what last name I had, if I was married, people assumed my name was my husband's name. So now when someone calls and asks for Mrs. Milosevic I calmly say, "I'm married to Mario. Can I help you with something?" I know my "image" has nothing to do with how these strangers perceive me.

Tonight we watched a movie with Richard Gere and Susan Sarandon. It wasn't very good. It would have been better if they had been together on the screen for more than about five minutes during the entire movie. So my mind drifted as we watched. Mario said, "He's not the American Gigolo any more." I said, "Yes, he's looking a little older. Ain't we all." I remembered being a teaching assistant at Eastern Michigan University while I was getting my master's degree. I ended up sharing an office with Dr. Marshall Tymn, who had been on of my professors. He wanted someone who didn’t smoke—yet he smoked. I said, "Marshall, this is a nonsmoking office. Why did you say you wanted a nonsmoker?" "Because I thought that would keep me from smoking," he said as he lit up.

Probably to annoy Marshall more than anything else, I taped a picture of Richard Gere from American Gigolo up on the wall near my desk. Very unprofessional, I know. I hope I didn't keep it up there for very long; I don't remember. I do remember Marshall practically squirmed every time he looked at it, and he kept trying to convince me to take it down. I just laughed. He said it wasn't very appropriate. He was right, of course. But he was often very inappropriate, and I never let him get away with it. When he said something sexist or stupid, I let him know. He never got offended or angry. He knew he was being an asshole.

Marshall was not the darling for the English department. He had gotten his doctorate in pop culture, or something along those lines, and that didn't sit well with the literati. Once, he asked me to nominate him for ‘teacher of the year’ at EMU. Marshall was aware that he didn't have the best image in the department, and he thought winning awards and getting published was something the department cared about. He always seemed frantic to me, frantic to be taken seriously, to be respected. To achieve.

I talked with a couple of the professors in the department about this request because I wasn’t sure what to do. One of them pleaded with me not to nominate Marshall. He said it would be a slap in the face to all the other people who had been nominated now, in the past, and in the future. I didn't think Marshall had been a great teacher, but he wasn't terrible. He was the kind of professor who rattled off lots of facts, then tested students on those facts. After some thought, I decided I couldn't nominate him. Telling him that I couldn't do it was very hard—because I told him why. When I told him, he looked away from me and down at his desk. His face kind of contorted, as though I had slapped him, even though I had tried to be gentle. I regretted my decision immediately. I've always regretted it. It wasn't a brave thing to turn him down; it wasn't the right thing. It was an unkind thing. Later he got another student to recommend him. I can't remember if he won or not. I do remember another professor in the department who was respected won a year or two later, and this professor believed there were no great 20th century women poets.

Marshall's wife Darlene was brilliant and beautiful, and he knew it. He loved her and his children very much, and he appeared to be more calm around them. Yet he often seemed lonely. Sometimes I would go out to a movie or dinner with him. One of the movies we saw together was Meteor. It was so stupid I think I laughed all the way through it. I went with Marshall to England (with a class); it was there that I met writer Russell Bates who urged me to apply to the Clarion Writing Workshop, which I did, the following year. Marshall Tymn gave me a letter of recommendation. I met Mario at Clarion.

Marshall and Darlene let Mario and I live in their house the next summer when they went to Europe again. We had our wedding "shower" in the house, where now a bunch of Clarionites who were attending our wedding also stayed. On our wedding night, Mario and I slept in Marshall and Darlene's bedroom, as usual, and listened in the darkness to our friends laughing and talking downstairs. When Marshall returned, he was annoyed that we had let the grass on the side of the house die. We went from his house to another professor's house, where we housesat for a few more weeks before we got our first apartment together. I don't remember if I ever saw Marshall after that.

Over a decade ago, a friend of mine from EMU called to tell me that Marshall had been in a car accident. Someone had run into Marshall's car after failing to stop at a red light or stop sign. Marshall sustained a brain injury. His brilliant mind was crumpled. His short term memory was shot. He would never be able to care for himself again.

I think of Marshall often. I wonder what he sees in the mirror. Does he know who he is? If I sent him a picture of Richard Gere, would he remember a photo of a younger Gere taped to his office wall? I hope before it all got bad—before he forgot it all—that he was able to look in the mirror and like what he saw.

I don’t like getting my photograph taken any more. Haven’t for years. I look at the pictures when they come back and I don’t see myself. I wonder who that person is. She looks so old and sick and unhappy. The photographs don’t reflect the person I would like to be. Perhaps they reflect the person I am. Who knows? It's just an image, and image don't mean nothin'!

Which is easy for me to say. In truth, how someone sees us often determines how that person treats us. People have preconceived notions about who someone is based on their clothes, for instance. I try not to stereotype someone based on appearances, but I'm sure I do it sometimes, too.

The "girl blogger" talks about election day in Iraq—and appearances. She writes: "I literally had chills going up and down my spine as I watched Abdul Aziz Al Hakeem of Iranian-inclined SCIRI dropping his ballot into a box. Behind him, giving moral support and her vote, was what I can only guess to be his wife. She was shrouded literally from head to foot and only her eyes peeped out of the endless sea of black. She stuffed her ballot in the box with black-gloved hands and submissively followed a very confident Hakeem."

She talks about going to a ministry building to find out some information: “'Please dress appropriately next time you come here.'” The man said to me. I looked down at what I was wearing- black pants, a beige high-necked sweater and a knee-length black coat. Huh? I blushed furiously. He meant my head should be covered and I should be wearing a skirt. I don’t like being told what to wear and what not to wear by strange men. “''I don’t work here- I don’t have to follow a dress code.'” I answered coldly. The cousin didn’t like where the conversation was going, he angrily interceded, “'We’re only here for an hour and it really isn’t your business.'” “'It is my business.'” Came the answer, “'She should have some respect for the people who work here.'”....No one could talk that way before the war and if they did, you didn’t have to listen. You could answer back. Now, you only answer back and make it an issue if you have some sort of death wish or just really, really like trouble....The problem with defiance is that it doesn’t just involve you personally, it involves anyone with you at that moment- usually a male relative. It means that there might be an exchange of ugly words or a fight and probably, after that, a detention in Abu Ghraib."

In Iraq and many countries around the planet, image does matter—appearances matter. If a woman isn't acting or dressing the way the dominant culture thinks she should act or dress she could be harmed. I think I'm changing my mind as I write this. I think that the next time someone calls me Mrs. Milosevic (or Mrs. Antieau) I might just give them a little lecture. In this country, so far, I can have my own name because I am my own person, not the property of my husband or anyone else. I wish that kind of freedom to all women. No matter how others see us, we need to see ourselves as free and autonomous.

May You See Yourself in Beauty! 0 comments

Wednesday, February 09, 2005

Falling Off the Wagon 

Well, I fell off the wagon today. I had to work most of the day, and when I got home, I was tired. A little bit weepy, too. Because of space and budget constraints, the thing I've worked at for over a decade is getting gutted. I believe very strongly in public libraries. I believe in their ability to help lift people out of poverty and ignorance. I believe in their ability to inspire people by their very existence. You can go to a public library and walk away with stories. With dreams. With hope.

It sounds corny, but I've seen it happen, many times. I remember once this boy coming into the small library where I was librarian. He was maybe 10 years old. Perhaps older, because he was small. He had straw-colored hair and big dark eyes, and he wore a black leather jacket. He looked like a tough little boy. I asked him if I could help him find something. He said he liked Stephen King, could I find him someone else like that since he had read most of his? We sat on the floor in the juvenile section of the library and began talking. His eyes lit up as he described the characters in a particular Stephen King book—I can't remember which one. He read late at night in his small room, while the TV was on in the other room and his father and friends sat around the kitchen table playing cards and getting drunk. "King really shows how people feel," he said. I mentioned a few other writers who wrote horror: Peter Straub, John Saul, F. Paul Wilson. I even threw in the names of some juvenile writers. He had tried some of them, liked some, didn't care for others. He was so articulate, so soft-spoken as we sat on the floor together talking, as he described how the stories took him to places he could not get to on his own. When we finished talking, he left the library with more stories.

I see our country spending billions to kill while public services are getting gutted. Not that I can blame the federal government directly for the lack of space and funding at our district library...

So I came home tired and discouraged and I turned on the TV. Yep. I've barely seen TV since we left on our trip to AZ. I watched about five minutes of CNN before I became so angry I wanted to put a chair through the TV. I started to phone CNN. Instead, I turned the TV off. Paula Zahn is so clearly biased in all her reporting. She snarled at Ward Churchill, the man who said what many people have been saying for years: as a nation we are culpable for what happened on 9/11. Some of the people who worked in the Pentagon and the Towers knew that the work they did was not for the greater good. That doesn't mean they deserved to be killed. I applaud him for saying it, even if I don't agree with it all. And frankly, I don't know if I agree or disagree with what he has said because I haven't read or heard enough of his views. It doesn't matter. He has a right to say it. The "right" is comparing his speech to hate speech. They say he is helping the terrorists. What bullshit. (For one thing, this whole thing about hate speech is troubling. Don't hate speech laws violate the first amendment? I've always wondered about that. When they first starting enacting these laws, I thought, well, I don't like people saying those things, but by making some speech illegal aren't we starting down that slippery slope?) Most people don't seem to understand free speech. The speech we need to protect is the speech we hate the most, because next time it's gonna be my speech that needs protecting.

The rest of the stuff on TV was all about celebrities. Geez Louise. I could not possibly care who is married to whom—unless I'm related to them or they are friends of mine. Who cares what outfit, lipstick, bag, or shoes an actress wears? Years from now—if our biosphere survives and people are still wanderings about—our descendants are going to look back at this time and wonder, "Why the fuck were all these people fiddling when the entire planet was burning?" We are a country of consumptive fiddling Neros.

OK, breathe. Not all of us are Neros. Mustn't generalize. Let's do something positive this moment. Like what? Go out and hug someone. I hugged lots of people today. Felt good. Oh, there's my husband. I think I'll go hug him...

...and I'll jump back on that wagon. No more MSM. (It's sun-powered, this wagon, so I ain't polluting or depleting our natural resources.)

May You Hug in Beauty! 0 comments

Tuesday, February 08, 2005

Deja Vu All Over Again 

Does this sound familiar to you?

U.S. Encouraged by Vietnam Vote :
Officials Cite 83% Turnout Despite Vietcong Terror

by Peter Grose, Special to the New York Times
9/4/1967

WASHINGTON, Sept. 3-- United States officials were surprised and heartened today at the size of turnout in South Vietnam's presidential election despite a Vietcong terrorist campaign to disrupt the voting.

According to reports from Saigon, 83 per cent of the 5.85 million registered voters cast their ballots yesterday.  Many of them risked reprisals threatened by the Vietcong.

The size of the popular vote and the inability of the Vietcong to destroy the election machinery were the two salient facts in a preliminary assessment of the nation election based on the incomplete returns reaching here.
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Sunday, February 06, 2005

Ain't Love (and Ignorance) Grand? 

You may have heard this story. When the tsunami hit, a hippopotamus and her one year old baby were swept out to sea. Momma died, but Baby ended up in a zoo with 100-year-old male tortoise, which Baby adopted as its mother. Many incredible stories about the tsunami have turned out not to be credible. As far as I can tell, this story is true, but we may hear otherwise later.

The Emperor gave his State of the Disunion speech. Fortunately, I missed the entire thing. I was having dinner in Eugene with my husband. However, I hear The Emperor has a new boy toy in the form of Joe Lieberman. (Never liked him—politically, I mean. Too much of a war mongerer.) Apparently the Emperor was so happy with Lieberman for voting for the new Torture Attorney General (TAG...you're next) Gonzales that he laid a big wet one on Joe "Uncle Tom" Lieberman. Ain’t love grand?

As Bush was talking about how great everything is here, the rest of the world came together to say that global warming isn't happening in 10 years or 100 years. It is happening today. (As I've said before, anyone who spends any time outdoors or pays attention to the weather knows something has drastically changed in the last 20 years.) The Emperor now admits global warming is real (unlike that idiot Michael Crichton, but remember he's also the guy who wrote about the terrible problem of men being sexually harassed by women in the workplace); however Bush says people (or businesses) aren't responsible for the warming so we can't do anything about it. (Remember, he's a rapture president, and they believe the degradation of the environment is one of the signs of the apocalypse which means god is coming to take them away soon, so...bring it on.)

By the way, Crichton has a bibliography of sources for his (fictional) book about how global warming isn't true and it's the evil powerful environmentalists who are the problem. The authors of one of the studies Crichton cites, scientist and science fiction writer Gregory Benford and Martin Hoffert, say Crichton used mostly secondary sources for his novel, and he apparently didn't understand the sources he did use.

By the way, there are things we can do to mitigate some of this. First off we can drive less, drive energy efficient cars, use less electricity, buy energy efficient appliances, and we can bug and bug and bug our politicians to do something and encourage our businesses to act responsibly. (Awright, you can stop laughing now. I do believe there are some very responsible businesses out there.)

Have you read Maureen Dowd's piece "Torture Chicks Gone Wild." It's about the use of female interrogators (torturers) on Iraqi (and other) prisoners. You've come a long way baby. What the women were asked to do and what they did was disgusting. Dowd writes, "After the prisoner spat in her face, she (the interrogator) left the room to ask a Muslim linguist how she could break the prisoner's reliance on God. The linguist suggested she tell the prisoner that she was menstruating, touch him, and then shut off the water in his cell so he couldn't wash." So that's what she did—only she put red ink on her hands to simulate menstrual blood, then reached into her pants and put the red ink (which the prisoner thought was blood) on his face. Why would anyone agree to do this kind of shit to another human being? Even though I think these patriarchal religions and regimes are disgusting, I hope I would never torture another human being.

And speaking of apocalypses, did you hear about the general who told the truth? Lt. General James Mattis says, essentially, that war is a blast and shooting people is a "hoot." We suspected some of these military folks were cowboys out there having a ball. I guess we were right. Don't you just love free speech?

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Thursday, February 03, 2005

“...and yes I said" Part One 

(Part Two is posted directly below Part One.)

Here is a long post about my travels home. One of the reasons I give so much detail is because it was an amazing journey, not so much because of what happened—because most of it was ordinary—but because it happened at all. When someone is chronically ill, ordinary things often become little miracles. Each and every step a milagro. Even a year ago, I don’t think I would have tried any of this. I would have worried about getting sick alone, worried that I might be physically incapable of so many things along the way. But I did it. The ordinary is extraordinary to me. I cherish the trivial. I bow down to the goddess Trivia (who is probably Hecate, too). I feel as though I have my hands back: or at least, I have buds. Blooming again.

“...and yes I said yes I will Yes.” —Molly Bloom (via James Joyce)

I’m on the Coast Starlight, the Amtrak train that goes from LA to Seattle and stops in-between. We just passed Mount Shasta. Blessed be. I am in the Cascades again. The train is traveling slowly through this mountainous area, and I like that. The “turbulence” on this train is worse than turbulence on airplanes. We’re passing areas of clearcut. Some of it has been replanted in neat little rows. Not very natural. I’ve got Janis Joplin on the computer. Her scratchy throat fits the scenery. I would describe what I’m seeing to you, but I’m not quite here yet. Still desert dreaming.

Saturday, January 29, 2005

Tucson, Arizona

I read my last Mesquite Tale outloud under the tree, as it was getting dark. Ordinarily I just tell the story outloud, without a script as it were. But today I wrote up the story, a kind of modern tale of “Silver Hands,” the fairy tale about the girl whose father cuts off her hands after he sells her (inadvertently) to the devil.

Something about this gruesome tale is familiar. It feels like a key to something. In the tale, Silver Hands goes into Nature and her hands start growing again. It is only then that she is reunited with her husband, the king, who is wandering the wilderness, unkempt and a little bit mad, in grief over the loss of his wife and son. Silver finds the animal-like man in the woods, recognizes him as her husband, and they are reunited and healed, as a family. Fairy Tales are transformative. Stories are transformative. Terrible things happen to people in fairy tales—just as terrible things happen in real life. If a girl without hands can find a life again—can learn to care for herself and her family—who knows what could happen.

After I finished reading my version outloud, I felt exuberant. I laughed. I did a dance. I said goodbye to the desert and thank you. I felt like I flew back to the casita. Now I was ready to go home.

Later that night the moon was bright again, filling up the world. How many nights can it be full? The caretaker said she wasn’t sure how many more days of a full moon her body could take. I laughed. I understood. Somehow time has stood still, giving us time to be fully here. In full. Just like the full moon.

The Moon. Ahhhh. Streaming silver light down on us, night after night. Women out in the desert, running with coyotes, javelinas, quails, ourselves. Secrets abound. They fly with the owls, are dropped down to the wash where the javelinas kick them around a bit until they let them loose again and the coyotes drink them up and howl them out into the night, exhaling them as songs. Hear them? We are telling you our secrets. Are you strong enough? Soft enough? Woman enough? and yes I say yes I am Yes.

Sunday, January 30, 2005

My last morning in the casita. I will miss this place. Too much to do before I leave for Phoenix. First thing is I look over “The Senorita and the Cactus Thorn,” one of the two stories I wrote last night. The printer runs out of ink as I’m trying to print a letter to the woman, who runs the retreat and who won’t be back until tomorrow. I pack. I’ve got too much stuff, and I hardly brought anything, I thought. When I was 18 and backpacking around Europe, the first thing my friend and I did once we hit the streets of London was to pack up and mail half of the contents of our backpacks back home. What is it they say? Take half the clothes you think you’ll need and twice the money.

I take one last walk through the wash. I try to memorize it all. I want to remember this place forever. Nearly twenty years ago I came to Tucson, and I hated it. I was so miserable, so angry that my expectations had not been met, that I missed the heart of the place. I should have known that under all the glitzy clothes and make-up (strip malls, traffic, etc.) a desert babe still lurked. We’ve all got layers, honey. This morning, the birds are noisy. Thrashers, woodpeckers, quail, mockingbirds, wrens. Darting from tree to tree, from hidden desert space to hidden desert space.

As I’ve said before, there is something clean about the desert, something pristine. Someday I’ll figure out how to explain what I mean.

The sky is blue and clear. The sun is up over your shoulders. You can feel its heat on your back. You look around and see a saguaro or two, in their yoga poses. Prickly pear grow this way and that, their flat mitten-like pads waiting for a pointed handshake. You see the chollas, taller than the prickly pear, skinny, with small sections hanging down, like fruit waiting to be plucked—only, again, the thorns are hanging on, too. And if you don’t know what any of those look like, just think cactus. Interspersed with the cactus are the mesquite, creosote, paloverde. Think relatively short trees and shrubs, more branch than leaves. At your feet is hard blond dirt, some of it covered in small kitty litter-like rocks. Or maybe you’re in a wash, and the earth is like beach sand, only dry. You listen. It is so quiet, the silence throbs. Or is that your own heart? Everything is still, silent, hot. You breathe and hear your own breath. It’s just you and Nature. And for an instant, you know you’re the same.

I go to the end of the wash, to the road, look around, then turn around and head back toward the casita. I see a thrasher on a low branch of a creosote. I reach into my pocket for the little camera I bought at Walgreen’s and put it up to my eyes. I’m just about to snap the photograph when a coyote steps into the picture, about twenty feet behind the bird. I laugh. “Thank you, Coyote.” I’d written about her last night (The Senorita and the Cactus Thorns), and now here she is. She looks at me. I look at her. She poses for three photos, and then she turns and leaves.

A nice send-off.

I stop by the mesquite tree and say good-bye. I thank the creatures, spirits, beings, everything and everyone for this place and this time. The circle is open but unbroken. Merry meet and merry part and merry meet again.

Good-bye to Colette—the horse—and the dog and caretaker. We’ve become friends, I hope, and I look forward to seeing how things work out for her. We talked about sex a lot during my stay, probably because we were two women on our own. Maybe men are right about us: all women think about is sex.

I check over the casita one last time, pack the car, and slowly drive away.

Manana!

I want to have lunch at Maya Quetzal before I leave, but they are closed. I look around Antigone, the feminist bookstore which is a couple doors down from May Quetzal, one last time, then I get into the car and leave Tucson behind. This time I am sorry to see her go. Or me go. Whichever.

During these past ten days alone, it felt good to be doing things on my own again. I liked doing ordinary things: going shopping, stopping at the library, doing dishes. I’m so happy that I am physically capable of doing them! (Although, truth to tell, I still don’t like getting gas. Can’t be good for us.)

I get to Phoenix a bit before dark. I have dinner with my sister and her sweetie. I am tired, a bit shaky, but I am glad to be here and spend some time with my sister. I haven’t eaten much today, so I go to an Indian restaurant a couple of blocks away at the art center to get take-out. Mario and I had gone there a couple of times. It is busy, but I go up to the bar and look at the menu.

“Are you ready to order?” the young man asks, in that sing-song accent Eastern Indians have when they speak English. (I love listening to people who speak English as a second language. They often make English sound like a song—with cadences, rhythms.)

“Yes, I can’t remember,” I say. “Does your dal have dairy in it?”

This is a trick I do when I go to restaurants to get take-out, whether I’ve been there before or not. By saying “I can’t remember” the person waiting on me thinks I’ve been there before—even if I haven’t been. Therefore I’m a repeat customer, not just some tourist, so they’ll treat me better. Hey, I’ve found it works.)

“Yes, yes,” he says, “But we can make it without.”

I give him my order, alu gobi and something else with garbanzos, and then I watch him wait on other people. He is the only wait person. Two or three young women bus the tables, set them, bring out naan and water to the customers. At one point, I say to him, “You’re busy tonight.”

“Yes,” he says. “We were supposed to have a party of 100 tonight.”

“Oh my goodness!”

“Yes, but last night, she called and said she would be here in two and a half hours!” he said. “She had the wrong day.”

“On a Saturday night!” I said.

“Yes, and you know how busy we get here on a Saturday night!”

I smiled. No longer a stranger.

“Yes,” I say. “What did you do.”

“We did it,” he says, “but there was great stress on us all.” He frowns and smiles, as if he is proud and annoyed all at the same time.

Later, I talk with my sister. I can’t seem to stop talking. I’m not sure if she gets a word in edgewise. It has been nice having her so close, and I’ll miss her.

Monday, January 31, 2005

Phoeniz, Arizona

I was on the go from the moment I got out of bed. I ate breakfast, then baked tofu and cooked quinoa to take on the train. Then I repacked my bag and taped up two boxes to be shipped. I drove to the UPS store and sent the heavy boxes home (gotta stop buying books), went to Whole Foods, and filled up the car with gas. (Nowhere you go in these big desert towns is easy. It’s all a dddddrrrrriiiiiivvvvveeeee. It all takes forever.) Got back to the townhouse and cleaned it up, ate lunch, packed my stuff into the car.

By this time it was nearly 3:00 p.m. I had to be at the thruway bus at the Phoenix Metro Center at 5:00 p.m. Since I didn’t know where that was I figured I should leave early. I had to turn in the rental and catch a cab to the bus. I grabbed the mapquest with directions to the Dollar rental car place, and I left. After about 20 minutes of following directions (reading them while I was driving. Hmmm....), I suddenly had a feeling I wasn’t going in the right direction. I glanced at the original address at the top: I had grabbed the directions to the Metro Center! Panicked that I was going to miss my bus (that would take me to the train in Flagstaff) I pulled off the road to call someone. I first called Mario. Don’t know why. Then I called Dollar. They asked where I was. I tried to explain. I had pulled into a military base of some kind. Geez. They probably were gonna shoot me for using a cell phone, so I thought it was best to get back on the road. The Dollar people were great. They told me exactly where to turn, what road to take, etc., to get to their place from where I was. Didn’t miss a beat. I was soon at the Dollar place. I gave them the car, then I waited for the cab.

I had a suitcase, my backpack, a little lunch box, and my purse. I had three things too many. And they were all way too heavy. The cab arrived, and we headed out into rush hour. He had his window open the whole way, and I kept wondering how he could stand to breath the exhaust—or more importantly, how was I gong to fare breathing all those fumes. He finally got sick of standing in traffic and took a back way. Again, I just kept talking. Talked about the differences between Arizona and Washington, politically. He didn’t say much, so I finally said, “Don’t worry. I won’t start talking about religion next.” He said, “Thank you.” I laughed, and we talked a bit about baseball.

He didn’t know where the Amtrak bus was at the Metro Center.

“It’s a big mall,” he said.

“OK. I’ll call Amtrak,” I said, expecting them to be as knowledgeable as Dollar was. (Maybe not expecting; perhaps “hoping” is a better word.) Someone from Amtrak answered, and I asked her where we should go at the Phoenix Metro Center to catch the Amtrak bus. She said she didn’t know; she wasn’t in Phoenix.

“I understand that,” I said, “but you must know where I go to wait for your bus.”

“We contract that service,” she said.

“Yes, but my tickets are with Amtrak,” I said patiently. “You must be able to tell me where to go to catch the bus.”

“Phoenix Metro Center west,” she said.

I told the cab driver and asked if the “west” part helped.

“Well, it’s just a big mall,” he said.

He took me to where the city buses came and went. He asked the security guard at this outside bus stop about Amtrak, and he pointed to the empty parking lot across from the buses. The cab driver helped me get my stuff out of the taxi. ($33.00) Then he drove away.

It was cloudy out and looked like it could rain any minute. I went over to where dozens of mostly young people waited for the bus. I felt a tinge of anxiety as I walked (and dragged my stuff) toward the music and chatter. But I breathed and let the anxiety go. So what if I was a country bumpkin in the middle of a major metropolitan city weighed down with too many bags who was ripe for the mugging. Life was good. As I sat waiting, I thought of my time back-packing through Europe. This was much the same, only I hadn’t been alone then. Much of travel is dealing with these kinds of things: getting from destination to destination, buying tickets, waiting for transportation, getting accommodations. Mundane activities.

It started raining. I stood under an overhang for a while. Then the rain stopped. It was five minutes to 5:00 and the bus wasn’t there. I called Amtrak again (thank goodness for cell phones). Was I in the right place? She (a different she) had no idea. “Can’t you ask someone?” she asked.

“I Am asking someone,” I said. “I’m asking you. Can’t you call the driver?”

“No, we contract that service...”

This was why people didn’t take the train! I have never dealt with any public service that was less public service-oriented than the Amtrak people on the phone.

I really didn’t want to miss this bus. I wanted to see Mario. I wanted to get home to my husband. I thought about going to the airport and just getting on a plane. I was rethinking my entire travel arrangements.

At some point I walked over to the parking area where the bus was supposed to pick me up because a man was waiting near his car and had been waiting for some time.

“Are you waiting for Amtrak?” I asked.

“No, no, my daughter,” he said in accented English. It sounded like a bad Russian accent from a television show. “What you doing?”

I explained what I was doing.

“Washington? I have sisters in Seattle,” he said. “They work in day care. No, how you say, health care. Lots of money. You like it? I live in Mollalla twenty years ago. It rain all the time. I live in Chicago. Detroit.” He listed all the places he had lived in the United States.

“Where are you from?” I asked.

“Rumania,” he said. He leaned on his car and listened to everything I said, completely and thoroughly absorbed. “A bus to Flagstaff? A train. I don’t know about that.” As we talked, I thought that most native born Americans probably would not have talked this long with me.

He saw someone he knew get off one of the metro buses, a young man his daughter’s age. They spoke animatedly in Rumanian (is that the right word for the Rumanian language), as he tried to figure out where his daughter was.

The bus showed up 30 minutes late, only it wasn’t a bus; it was a shuttle. The Rumanian man was fascinated. He looked all around the vehicle that was about the size of an SUV.

“Never seen anything like it,” he said. “God bless you!” He waved.

I told the driver, “I’ve been waiting a while and I’ve really got to pee.” He was kind enough to stop at a burger joint, and I ran in quickly. Then we left Phoenix.

I sat next to a man about my age. Two people sat in front of us, and a man sat in the back by himself. He was on a cell phone.

“Yeah, man, someone stole our equipment, we almost got eaten by a gator, and we were attacked by the natives,” he was saying.

I wanted to laugh. He talked so loud. Were we going to have to listen to this all the way to Flagstaff? Ah well. Something to write about. It was beginning to get dark. After he said good-bye to the person on the other end of the phone, he said to us, “We were on a rafting trip in the Amazon. Didn’t want to leave you guys hanging.” His voice was raspy, and he kept coughing. Hope you didn’t bring back nuthin’ catchy from the Amazon, mister.

The shuttle bus driver drove through heavy traffic in the HOV lane. He drove fairly fast. Freaking fast. Frighteningly fast.

I quipped, “You just do this so you can drive in the HOV lane.”

“Nah. They don’t enforce it here,” he said. “I don’t know why. In California, now, they enforce it.”

“Yes, they do in Portland, too,” I said. “I heard on NPR that in some places they let people with electric cars drive in the HOV lane.” I don’t know why I said this. Just making conversation...

“In California they have lanes that you can pay to drive on,” he said.

“Really?” I wasn’t understanding. Like a toll road? No, a toll lane. So essentially the rich people could have their own lane, he was saying. I’d driven in California many, many times; I didn't remember any toll lanes.

The man next to me said that was true in Mexico, too. He said there were two roads. Essentially one for the rich gringoes and a few rich Mexicans and the other road was congested with ruts and potholes. A privatized road, essentially.

“Really?” I said. The man and I started talking. At some point he must have asked me where I was from and I told him. He said he had a Grandfather in that area. I asked him where. BZ Corners. I asked him his grandfather’s name. He told me. My mouth fell open. I knew his grandfather.

“You’re kidding?” I said. “My husband was friends with him. He wrote a story about him. We visited him a few times before he died. We’ve got a couple of his photographs hanging on our living room wall!”

“You’re kidding?” he said. “What’s your husband’s name?”

So we introduced ourselves and started going crazy gabbing. It was clear in about two sentences that we were two old liberals, progressive, pinkos, whatever name you want to give to those of us who thought we could create a better society: peace, love, save the environment, create community, etc. We talked nonstop for two hours. Two blue people in a red state. A red shuttle bus, probably. He did extreme sports and had lived in his van and on friends’ couches for the last twenty years. He was now living in a friend’s garage that he’d converted into a little apartment. Our sentences overlapped as we talked about Bush, finding a community, fire fighting (he’d been a smoke jumper), breathing difficulties (he’d been a smoke jumper), family, fears, adrenalin, dogs and dog owners, more politics.

Thirty minutes into the drive and I was extremely uncomfortable with how fast the driver was traveling. These were mountain roads with curves and he was going 80 mph. Sometimes he went on the side of the road to avoid potholes, and the sound of the wheels going over that “wake-up” strip set off all my alarm bells. If we hit gravel, that would be it. Mark encouraged me to breathe, and he kept talking and I kept talking, sometimes with my eyes closed, as we bounced toward Flagstaff. Since Mark was into extreme sports, going 80 mph hadn’t gotten his adrenalin going one iota. He just laughed. But he didn’t laugh at me, and he didn’t minimize my anxiety or withdraw from me as most people do. We talked about it being a control issue. I grabbed Mark’s arm and then hand a couple of times. I was terrified out of my mind. During one bad stretch, I just hung onto Mark’s hand as we climbed higher, the roads got curvier, and snow began showing up on the sides of the road. Finally, I was able to relax—or at least let go of my death grip.

“I am so glad you were here,” I said, laughing. The two hours would have been excruciating without him.

As we neared Flagstaff, we exchanged cards. I reminded him that Mario worked at the library in Stevenson; if he lost the card, he could always just go to the library.

I was glad when we reached Flagstaff, although I was sorry to see Mark go. I have always enjoyed making these kinds of connections when I traveled. It was icy cold at the train station. Mark and I hugged goodbye. Then I dragged my stuff into the train station. I stepped inside. They were remodeling. Although I couldn’t smell them, I could taste the chemicals.

“I can’t stay here,” I said to the guy behind the counter. I didn’t have a hat, gloves, or scarf. I had sent them all home so I didn’t have to carry them. I figured I’d be in Flagstaff for only a short time. The guy looked at me over his glasses. “Well, leave your stuff here and I’ll figure out your ticket,” he said.

“Any place I can find something to eat?” I said, “Nonsmoking.”

“It’s all nonsmoking,” he said, “including the bars. Cross the road and you’ll find something.”

I took my purse and my lunch box and went back into the freezing cold. It was below 20 degrees. I had on my loafers, having sent my running shoes (with traction) back home in the mail. What had I been thinking? The parking lot and sidewalks were ice and snow. I crossed the old Route 66, the mother road. Boom!

It was night, and I was in a strange cold town. My breathing and ear problems get aggravated in the cold (which is why I seldom go anywhere without a hat and scarf), so I tried to breathe through my sweater and hold my hands over my ears while also trying not to fall while hanging onto my three hundred pound purse and look for a place to stay warm in for two and a half hours. I went to the first bar I found. They were smoking. I kept walking through the night and the dark. I wondered what the hell was I doing? On the other hand, what the hell was I doing! This was kind of cool. Things weren’t going well, but I was surviving. I was doing OK.

Mario and I had stopped in Flagstaff a couple of times before and had found a good place to eat, but I couldn’t seem to get my bearings to figure out where that might have been. I was too cold and disoriented.

Finally I found an open burrito place. Three young guys were running the joint. I ordered beans, rice, and chips, but I was skeptical. I wasn’t sure the young men were old enough or cognizant enough to understand hygiene. I couldn’t bring myself to eat the food (which was served to me in Styrofoam containers). Instead, I ate my tofu sandwiches. The music was so loud. Most of it was hard driving rock ‘n roll. When the station played something I recognized, I said to one of the boys, “Why are you listening to this old people’s music? This is stuff from when I was a kid.”

“Nobody doesn’t like this now,” the guy said. He wore a watch cap and sported a large tattoo on his left arm. I couldn’t quite make out the design.

“I could stand a little Led right now,” I said.

“Yeah, that would be good.”

“Or Queen’s Bohemian Rhapsody,” I said.

“Oh yeah. That would be great,” he agreed.

“I just got their greatest hits and that wasn’t on it,” I said.

“No way. That’s their most famous.”

“Yeah, I think they put it on the Greatest Hits 2 or something. Just to get me to buy it.”

He shook his head at the unfairness of it all.

“I like your tat,” I said.

He held it up.

Some creature with wings.

“That one hurt?” I asked.

“Nah.” He pulled up his sleeve and showed me another. “This one did. Probably cuz it was my first and I didn’t really know what was up.”

I asked him if there was someplace else I could go in town to hangout, since they were closing at 9:00.

“You know Maloney’s? Go a couple doors down from it. There’s a coffee house. Kind of quiet.”

At 9:00, I went out into the cold again. I tried not to think of warm desert nights. Be in the moment, Kim. Be in the freaking freezin’ moment.

I wandered around again. Think: dark, cold, icy, deserted. I found the quiet “coffee house” and went inside. To me, a coffee house is a dark warm place where people sit around in chairs or on sofas and someone else plays a guitar. Not so this place. The music blared, albeit not as loud as at the burrito place. The five young people there all stopped when I came in and stared at me. I started laughing, and they quickly turned away. The young waitress asked me what she could get me. She was behind a bar. Behind the people hanging at the bar was a wall of coolers filled with beers, juices, etc. In one of the corners of the small place was a kind of cigarette stand. A cigarette bar. Now the counter that kept people out (or the cashier in) was up and people reached in to get packs of cigarettes.

“Something hot,” I said.

“Tea, chai?”

“Tea,” I said. “You know, I really just want hot water. I’ll pay for the tea, but I just want the water.”

She got me a mug of hot water. I reached for a paper next to me (a USA Today paper which is conservative but what the hell) and read it while the young people came and went. They all seemed excited by the snow and cold. Several people came in and just bought cigs. Quite a few got those cigarettes without additives. (I forget what it’s called.) I’m still amazed that so many 20 and 30 somethings smoke. I can see being into extreme sports—even though it’s not my thing—but why take up a habit that can kill you slowly and gruesomely? Ah well.

When 10:00 p.m. rolled around, I was back out on the cold streets again. At the train station, I found out the train was late. The man in his booth handed me back my new tickets, and said, “Did you know you’re going to be in LA all day? Your train gets in about 8:30 a.m. and you don’t leave on the thruway bus until 3:00.”

“No, I didn’t know that. No one told me. I’m going to be in LA all day?” The train from Sacramento to Portland left at midnight.

What was I going to do in Los Angeles without a car? It wasn’t a long enough time to call anyone I knew. I called Mario and we talked about the possibility of me just driving to Sacramento from Los Angeles. It was nearly 400 miles. I wasn’t sure I was up to that much driving by myself, especially on LA freeways, but I asked him to make a tentative reservation with a car rental place.

I went in and out of the station while waiting for the train. Inside with the chemicals, then outside in the freezing. I was not dressed for either. The security man, a short wiry man in cowboy boots and a white cowboy hat (turned up on the sides; he was no pretender), with long white hair and a white beard, stood outside with me for part of the time. Three of us started talking about the recent train derailment in LA. A man started to commit suicide by leaving his SUV on the railroad tracks (he jumped out before the train came). The Metro Line train hit the SUV. Eleven people died.

“That just pisses me off,” I said, not feeling very charitable. “If you’re going to kill yourself, why take out other people.”

“He didn’t even kill himself,” the man standing with us said. “Gonna get the state to do it for him.”

“I was in Albuquerque waiting for the train on a night like this,” the security guard said. “We could see the train coming. And this woman was moving toward the train. She was as far away from me as that light is.” He pointed to one of the amber lights down the platform a bit. “We thought she was going to take a photograph. But she stepped right in front of the train.”

“You saw that?” I asked.

He nodded. I had a feeling he had seen quite a lot in his long life, not all of it pretty.

“They had to take the blood alcohol content of the engineer and the rest of the crew,” he said. “Even though they didn’t do anything. But the Federal Transportation Board had to do everything, you know, just to see.”

I thought, they should have taken her blood alcohol, but I didn’t say it outloud.

The security guard said, “See from down there at the end of the platform down to the other end?” he said, pointing and holding out his arms. “The train master who has been here for twenty years said 115 people have died during that time in that space. Hit by trains.”

“They all killed themselves?” I asked.

“A lot were accidents,” he said. “University kids drunk, trying to get to the other side.”

Geez. That’s a lot of dead kids. Seemed like they should do something about that.

Finally the train arrived. I was so cold, tired, hungry. I was ready for my spacious sleeping accommodations on the train. It would be really nice if Mario was here with me, but since he wasn’t, I’d have twice as much room. My room was on the second “floor.” I couldn’t drag my suitcase up, so the attendant said he’d bring it up. I went up the narrow stairs and down the narrow corridor. On either side of me were beds in teeny tiny rooms. In fact, the bed–which was cot-sized--took up nearly all the room in the room. I was glad I wasn’t sleeping in these rooms. Then I looked at the numbers on the doors. Wait. I was sleeping here. I stopped. A cot-sized bed in an room just bigger than a cot. I started to laugh. I was very glad Mario was not here. What the hell would a 6 foot plus man do? I dumped my backpack on the bed, then crawled onto the bed. Soon after the train started, the attendant brought me my suitcase. I only had change, so I gave him a couple of bucks. (I hate tipping. Why don’t we just pay people a fair wage and screw tipping?)

Somehow I opened up my suitcase enough to get out the air filter. I plugged that in. I called Mario on the cell and told him about my accommodations. Then after using the tiny rest room down the hall, I took off my outer clothes and got under the covers. Once my eyes adjusted to the darkness, I saw a sky filled with stars. I saw the Big Dipper and Orion. It was all so beautiful. Off to the side, a yellow half moon rocked near the horizon, looking like it was deciding whether it should sink or soar.

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"...yes I will Yes.” Part Two 

February 1, 2005

Somewhere in the United States West on the Southwest Chief

It was a strange night. I swear I had to pee every two minutes. So I’d have to get my legs out of the “bed,” pull on a pair of slacks, open the door, climb over my suitcase, and go out into the corridor. I got hungry, too, and dug through my back pack for something to eat. The train shook so much that I was sure we were going to go off the tracks many times. I kept telling myself that it was normal. Normal. Normal. I was probably feeling it more because I was on the second story.

I went into and out of sleep. I woke up for good around 6:30. I could hear people in the corridor talking about the ride. One woman said, “I really thought we were going to come off the tracks.” “Yes, it was bad,” someone else agreed. I asked the attendant why it was so “turbulent.” He said, “I think they switched us to another track or something.” “Another track?” I thought there was only one track. Wasn’t that why trains were often crashing into one another? It sounded like he was telling me a tale, but I didn’t challenge him. I went to the dining car. I started to sit down and the waitress said, “We’re done with breakfast.”

“Pardon me?”

“We’re all done,” she said. “It’s too late.”

It was 6:30 a.m. I had just heard the club car attendant give a last call for Johnny Walker and Jim Beam. But not for breakfast?

“Why didn’t you do a last call or something?” I asked.

“I thought we did,” she said, shrugging. “She must have forgot.”

I was hungry and not happy. Ah well. Just two hours until LA and then I could get something to eat.

Only we were an hour late.

As we neared the LA station, the conductor or someone started calling out sights. “That hospital over there in the distance. Do you recognize it?”

I looked. I actually did. It looked like the hospital they used at the opening credits for General Hospital.

It was indeed. He pointed out other things, but I was trying to get my stuff together. I quickly left my “bunker” once we got into the station. As I got off the train, I asked an Amtrak man where Union Station was. He pointed. Over there. I didn’t see anything.

“How many miles away?” I asked.

“Just a quarter of a mile,” he said.

I went down into a tunnel, feeling weighed down by all my crap. I was tired and hungry. As I came out of the tunnel, I was met by hundreds of people getting off the Metro Line and going someplace else. I saw someone schleping bags like me so I figured they were from Amtrak, too, and I started to follow her. Then I decided to ask her, and she said, “No, it’s back there.” So I turned around, dragging my stuff behind me. Hundreds of people were all around me. I was once again reminded of my days backpacking across Europe. As the crowd of people thinned, I saw I was going into Union Station. It looked like a grand old building, with high vaulted ceilings and dark marble columns, shiny stone floors.

I went to the Amtrak info counter to find out where to store my baggage while I decided what to do—and to express my displeasure at my lack of breakfast and information about my schedule (i.e. why didn’t someone mention I’d be spending the day in LA?). I told the man at the counter everything, including how no one knew where I was supposed to go to catch the bus in Phoenix. He didn’t give a shit. He said, “You have to get a refund over there.”

This was why people didn’t take the train, I thought again. After determining there were no lockers in which to store my stuff, I dragged by baggage over to a place beneath a sign that read, Baggage, Amtrak Passengers. The only person there was a short, heavyset, sweaty man who didn’t seem to want to wait on me, but then maybe I was a bit cranky by now. He finally told me $2 a bag. I’m thinking, “Give me my freaking breakfast and we’ll talk.” I handed him a $50 bill which was all I had. Leftover vacation money. He refused it. And he wouldn’t let me keep my stuff there while I looked for change.

I said, “Look, I’ve had a long hard night.” He walked away from me.

I was so angry. Perspective, I told myself, perspective. I started to curse the man. No, I don’t mean swear at him. I mean curse him. I could feel the intent forming in my mind and starting to come off my tongue. Something about his private parts withering and his children—No, wait, I couldn’t curse his children. And maybe his private parts already had withered which would explain his attitude. I grabbed my stuff and dragged it to the car rental place right around the corner. The man at the counter was friendly and competent; all the information he needed to get me my car was at his fingertips. Within minutes, he gave me keys to a car.

“If I want to keep going to Portland, can I?” I asked.

“Sure, just give me a call.” He said. Then he explained how to get on the freeway.

I walked out of Union Station into a beautiful blue warm day. Palm trees grew all around, taller than some of the buildings. A man drove up with a car. We checked it out, then he left me with a car. Man, what a freaking country. No wonder people hated us. How many times during this trip had a complete stranger handed me, a complete stranger, a car. Without me giving them a dime. I had used three different companies and they were all so efficient, polite, knowledgeable.

I figured out the new car, then I got in. I turned right onto Alameda, then right onto Caesar Chavez Blvd. and left onto Mission. Then out onto the expressway. Soon I had the radio up high and I was tooling down the Ventura Highway. Ahhhh, freedom!!!! It was so cool. Mario, my par excellent navigator, had given me directions to the nearest Whole Foods, so I was soon in the store, surrounded by good glorious food, and every one said hello to me, how you doing you’re a human being I'm a human being. Kiss me on the lips, you wonderful California people! I don’t remember what I ate. Beans, rice, potatoes. Something.

Back on the highway again. I scanned the radio stations. Nearly all of them were talking about show biz stuff. It was big news that the Sopranos got boffo bucks on a syndication deal. I thought that’s news? Then I remembered I was in Los Angeles, and it is a company town and the company is show business. I turned up some rock ‘n roll station and headed north. No wonder people like it here, I thought. Right now the freeways were uncrowded. The day was so gorgeous. The air was clean (moderate, actually). I was happy, happy, happy! Tooling down the Ventura Highway, man. This is where Joey moved to from New York, where all his Friends were. I wondered if he’d gotten a job yet...Oh wait, that’s a TV character. Ain’t real, baby. Ain’t real.

I drove by these mountains, or hills, that were bare on top and along the sides. It looked like the grass and sod had just slid off, like toppings on a sundae, slipping off the melting ice cream scoops. Thus the landslides, I supposed. Less than an hour out of Los Angeles, I drove into what looked like smog. The night before while we were waiting for the train, one of the passengers had told me about tule fog, a weather condition in the Central Valley named after the tule reeds in the marshy areas. It’s a kind of inversion, I believe. Fog or smog or whatever it was, it went on for hours as I drove through mostly flat agriculture area. Ugly, ugly. I saw a spray plane fueling up, but I never saw it spray. The fog/smog didn’t lift until about six hours later, just before Sacramento.

I was tired by the time I arrived in Sacramento and decided I should take the train. It would get me home sooner to Mario. If I drove I’d have to stop and find a hotel room, etc. etc. I got stuck in a bad traffic jam in Sacramento. It was 5:00 rush hour. Where was our public transportation? I looked around and saw all these people in their SUVs, one to a car, and thought this country doesn’t even have the public transportation as good as a third world country.

I ate at Whole Foods again. Then, with Mario’s impeccable directions, I drove to the airport while listening to Strom Thurmond’s 80 year old black daughter talk about her father on NPR. I dropped the car off at the car rental place. Once again, boom, bam, I was finished. It was cold outside. I waited for the airport shuttle since the drop off for the car wasn’t right at the airport. The shuttle dropped me off near the taxis. A man in a blue turban got out of his taxi and put my suitcase in his trunk. I got into the car. A mala (or prayer beads) hung from his rearview mirror. By now, I was tired. A big foggy myself I closed my eyes as he drove away. He asked me a couple of questions but I couldn’t understand his broken English and he couldn’t understand my nasal English.

Once we got into town he said, “Give me $28.” His rate ticker said $26.50.

“Does that include the tip?”

“No, that’s extra.”

I handed him a $50. He stopped in the middle of road and pointed.

“That’s the train station,” he said. Down a long dark stretch I could see lights on a building, I thought. But to get there I had to walk by a darkened building under construction . Plus a darkened parking lot. How did I know that was the train station beyond?

I don’t know why I didn’t protest. The guy seemed angry or something. It was dark and cold and this stranger was dropping me off in the dark and cold. He gave me $20.00 out of my $50

“There,” he said. And he drove away.

I stood looking at the long stretch of darkness. Why hadn’t the bastard driven to the station? And why had I gotten out of the car. *sigh*

I dragged myself and my baggage throug